Thursday, December 14, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 14 Dec 17 Float Test, Floorboard and Forward Seat

14 Dec 17:

Trimmed the middle cleat to clear the centreplate case flange with a circular saw.

Cut the forward seat to width and beveled the edges to fit with a circular saw.

Trimmed the transom cap to fit with a belt sander, 60 grit and a random orbital sander.

Float test, small leak forward of the keel strip, appears to be coming from a stem strip screw hole.

Cut handles for the floorboards, centered them so the floorboard would be balanced when we have to carry them.

Marked a hole big enough for 4 fingers wearing a glove. Drilled pilot hole for the jigsaw blade.

Cut the hole with a jigsaw.

Made a pattern to send to a friend.


Wednesday, December 13, 2017

Tuesday, December 12, 2017

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 07 Dec 17 Transom Cap

07 Dec 17:

Took some of the clamps and plastic off of the new teansom cap, it looks great and is ready for sanding and final fitting. Skipper suggested we keep the clamps on until it is attached to prevent springback as it finishes drying. The fir plywood already had a curve to it but the cumaru teak strips did not, so they might try to straighten out a bit when unclamped.


Tuesday, December 5, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 05 Dec 17

05 Dec 17:

VICTORY enjoyed camping out on the work deck, under cover of a tarp. Much better than uncovered under a tree.

Part of the transom cap flange was gone, probably damaged when the original cap was removed years ago. Those holes in the flange are for screws to hold the cap in place. In this photo we have smoothed and beveled out the fiberglass around the repair area with 60 grit on a dual action sander to get a nice clean surface for epoxy and glass. Multiple layers of 4 oz fiberglass strips were used to fill the void, wet with TotalBoat High Performance epoxy and THIXO.

Multiple layers of 4 oz fiberglass strips were used to rebuild the transom cap flange, wet with TotalBoat High Performance epoxy and THIXO. Another strip wrapped the adjacent edges of the flange, then plastic sheet was applied to isolate the epoxy, wood strips to hold the repair to shape the patch and finally clamps to hold the patch while the epoxy dried. We also filled the old screw holes and splits in the gunwale with THIXO. In other news the planer in the background was used to plane a piece of teak down to 1/4 inch, to be the top layer on the new cap.

Traced the aft curve of the transom cap with a sharpie while the plywood help in place on the boat, then used the old cap to get the fore-aft measurement. Cut the curve with a DeWALT jigsaw.

Sanded the aft end and sides of the cap to match the transom curve with 60 grit on a belt sander.

Once the aft curve was defined and faired we used a combination square to move a line forward 8 inches to get the leading edge curve. Also marked the approximate location of the mizzen mast partner.

The new transom cap will be 3/4 inches thick, two 1/4 inch layers of fir plywood and a top layer of teak. The teak cap had to be cut from two pieces because the widest stock we could get was 5 1/2 inches wide, and the cap measures almost 8 inches from forward edge to t aft edge.

Transom cap layers epoxied together with TotalBoat THIXO, clamped to the boat to form the matching curve.

There's a Drascombe Dabber transom cap under there somewhere, two 1/4 inch layers of marine grade fir plywood capped with a top layer of cumaru teak. Glued together with TotalBoat THIXO. I had to piece together the teak, those fore and aft strips are clamping down the seam between the two pieces, with plastic sheet underneath the clamp strips to keep the from becoming part of the boat.

Cut pieces of teak for a new forward seat and edge glued them with TotalBoat THIXO. The seat is removable and is placed just forward of the centerboard to be a rowing station.

VICTORY liked sleeping on the work deck that she asked to bunk inside with ZIP and WINNIE, while it was raining outside.


Season's Greetings from SBR

Wishing you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Boat: Penobscot 14 ST. JACQUES
Photographer: The Skipper

Monday, December 4, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 04 Dec 17 Tilt Trailer

04 Dec 17:

Bottom repairs are finished and trailer is back from rehab, loaded the 550 pound boat with ease.

New tilt latch and safety chain.

The boat is balanced great, just need to adjust the keel rollers.

Went to buy a piece of 1/4 inch marine grade fir plywood to laminate a new transom cap. The first piece they pulled was cupped and they were going to put it aside. I told them it looked perfect for what we needed and sure enough it has a perfect curve to match the transom top.

The boat and trailer have not needed chocks for a long time.

Complete log of VICTORY.

Saturday, December 2, 2017

Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 02 Dec 17 Trailer, Paint and Outboard Mount

02 Dec 17:

Tongue was a little bent! Eddie English and crew got the trailer road ready again, added 6 inches to the new tongue, put on new 2 inch coupler with safety chains, bow stop with winch, bow roller, tilt latch and bolt, axle, springs, u bolts, Posi-lube hubs, new bunks with brackets and carpet, and wigher weight capacity 5.70 x 8 inch tires. All hot dipped galvanized or stainless, basically a new trailer for several hundre less than the cost of new. Eddie's crew also got the new lights that I put on working, I learned that tilt trailers sometimes need a jumper ground wire to best ground the tongue to the main frame. Otherwise the ground tries to go through the rusty tilt bolt.

Sanded the keel rub strip with 60 grit on the belt sander then 120 on the random orbital sander.

Second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice rolled and tipped. I rolled with a Might Mini foam roller and frame from Jamestown Distributors, they sell a nice foam roller kit that includes the 4" roller frame, solvent-resistant plastic tray, two 4" Mighty Mini foam covers, and disposable gloves for $4.77 USD. The Skipper is an awesome painter and she tipped with a 2 inch chip brush, did a great job. the air temperature was 74F, we thinned the paint 5 percent with brushing thinner because the roller was dragging a bit. For thinner, it is best to use the manufacturer's recommended thinner.

Took out the rotted outboard mount.

Two of the nuts on the back of the outboard recess that hold the bolts on the starboard side were easy to reach through the cuddy, they came off easy with a wrench holding the nut. The nuts on the port side are inaccessible and we kept out fingers crossed removing them, because if the backer nuts fall off then an inspection port might be needed to refasten the mount. The bolt on the top was frozen and it snapped, the bolt on the bottom came out easily and the nut stayed in position, yay. We had read about the port side nuts, so we were prepared. One part of the article mentioned that some Dabbers had 2 port side nuts, some only had one, so we will go with one port side nut for the new mount pad. If we notice any movement we'll look at different options to add another fastener.

We cut a new outboard mount from cumaru. The old mount was 1 1/4 inches thick, we didn't have teak that thick so I planed a 3/4 inch thick piece down to 1/2 inch on the DeWALT compact planer and fastened the two pieces together with silicone bronze screws. Used the old mount to get the port side bolt location, but the starboard side of the old mount was too rotten to use as a pattern, So we put the starboard side bolts in position with a dab of paint on each head, lined up the port side bolt and pressed the backside of the mount against the bolt heads. That left a paint mark on the back of the mount and we drilled the bolt holes using the paint as a reference. We went up one drill size for the bolt holes to allow for alignment slop.

The new mount pad is trimmed a bit on the lower aft corners to fit the rounded bottom of the outboard well, we used a belt sander for that with a 60 grit belt. Then the pad was fastened with marine stainless bolts, washers and stop nuts.

The centreplate!