Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE

Onkahye (Seminole Indian word for Dancing Feather), 1980 Drascombe Lugger from Honnor Marine, Devon, England

The family acquired Onkahye in 1982 from a friend, she had been imported from England to Houston and she home ported Corpus Christi, Texas. She is a yawl that has a sliding gunter rig, boomless main, and can float in a small puddle of dew. Capn Jack was the Master and Commander from 1982-1995 and the is the commanded by the Skipper now. She has sailed the waters of Corpus Christi Bay, Oceanside Harbor, Squaw Lake Reservoir (yes, she has sailed in the Arizona Desert), Lake Ray Roberts, Lake Worth, some tiny lake too small to have a name, Pensacola Bay and Santa Rosa Sound. She has her eye on the Outer Banks and Key Largo as well.


From Sailing

The Lugger was designed by John Watkinson after he got out of the boat business to suit his own requirements, which were in his own words:
1. "Ability to trail and for the family to handle on and off the trailer,
2. First rate sea-keeping qualities,
3. A good motor boat, for to start with, it was going to be a question of fishing and pottering under power,
4. I wanted the boat to be lively enough for me to enjoy a good hard sail once I had put the family on the beach."

He launched his first Lugger in 1965.

16 Sep 2013 Rigging A Lugger

We keep all of the sailing gear in the boat when it is stored in the garage. Some items get moved to the van when taking off for a road trip. Today we rigged in the driveway and launched from the neighbor's ramp.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

All our kids outgrew this life jacket so now it pulls duty as a road trip cushion for the main and mizzen, lashed down with one of the dock lines around the starboard stern cleat and traveller. We fly a couple of pennants, so now is the time to ship those.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

The main is stowed in a side locker, the rudder and the motor ride on the cockpit sole, rudder is cushioned by an old towel.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Here is the rigging for the mainsheet.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

The bumpkin gets shipped through the transom, sheet is clipped to the sail and bitter end led through hole in transom to jam cleat. We leave it retracted in case we spin the boat around at the dock, that prevents it from getting snapped off. We also drop in an electric motor, used to maneuver to and from the dock if wind conditions are not conducive to sailing to and from.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

We use one of our throwable cushions to protect the mast for trailering. It is secured with the dock line around the belaying pins.

We placed a silver dime at the base of the mast as a gift to the wind gods.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

When I rig the boat single handed, I step the mizzen first to get it out of the way and then step the mast. You have to raise the yard a little and make sure all the parell beads and rigging clear the thwart. Once the mast is up, I lash the base around the belaying pins with a sail tie to hold it in place while I secure the jib.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

The jib connects to the furling drum, it is a job that requires 2 1/2 hands. The easy way is one person pushing the mast forward a little and holding out the jib while a second person pins the shackle into the furling drum. The cotter pin also has a retaining clip.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

The side stays are secured by taking a few turns through the fairleads in the cockpit and then throwing on a few half hitches.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Once the main mast is secure we like to raise the main without it being sheeted and get the halyard and downhaul sorted out. Then we lower the main, clip the clew to the sheet and stow it on the cockpit sole on the side farthest away from the dock. That way when we step in the boat from the dock we are not stepping on the sail.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Onkahye rigged and ready for the ramp.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Dropped the boat in, Skipper also handles Dock Wench duties, she keeps the boat calm while I get the trailer out of the water. Don't forget the drain plug!

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Once in the water in the dock, we drop a little centerboard, put the motor down and ship the bumpkin. We motor out a bit and drop in the rudder, rails the sails and go for a cruise.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

OnKaHyE and Cyane taking a break.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013


2012 Drascombe Lugger Onkahye (Dancing Feather) 2012 sailing Santa Rosa Sound


2013 Sailing Santa Rosa Sound Sailing Navarre, Santa Rosa Sound, April 2013 YouTube by Scott

1980-1996 Onkahye in Corpus Christi T Heads, her home port 1980-1996.

From Sailing

Lugger bow with roller reefing

From Sailing

Here's some of the gear needed for our day sail. Life jackets, tool kit with safety gear and registration, throwable cushions, battery for electric motor, spare lines, anchor, cooler, water jug and towels.

From Sailing

Dodge Grand Caravan had the towing duties. Lots of storage space! Honda Odyssey or Ford Edge have the honor now.

From Sailing

Ramp rigging

From Sailing

Gaff rigged yawl

From Sailing

Lugger galley

From Sailing

Trailer guides make launch and recovery a dream vs nightmare

From Sailing

Lugger dock crew. Token Chick handles the dock lines in addition to her Skipper duties, spins the boat around while I park the trailer. Guys are copying her, pretending to know what they are doing :) When I get back I lower the centerboard, slide the rudder in and ship the bumpkin.

From Sailing

Skipper lets brother turn a trick on the tiller

From Sailing

Keep the crew happy

From Sailing

Commodore and the Skipper

From Sailing

Lugger shows her Honnor Marine and Devon, England heritage

From Sailing

Skipper back to handling dock lines, she is a pro

From Sailing

Now they're posing

From Sailing

Video by our buddy Capn Scott




Webb Chiles, another Lugger fan, single handed Chidiock Tichborne out of San Diego across the Pacific and beyond, making it out into the Atlantic on his second circumnavigation before a rogue wave capsized the boat and the rig was lost. Webb is currently on another circumnavigation in a Moore 24 (Jan 2017).

From Sailing

From SBR 3: Jan 2014-

From SBR 3: Jan 2014-

Hanging out with the Daysailer and the Sunfish.

From SBR 3: Jan 2014-

Onkahye crossing Corpus Christi Bay 1995 with Capn Jack and the Skipper.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

Onkahye sailing East Bay 2013.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

26 Oct 16:

New trailer for Onkahye, frame and axle are dropped to lower the boat. Galvanized, trailer jack, spare, LED lights, guides, centerboard bunk. We will be able to launch her in some really skinny water now and she rides smooth on 13 inch radials now vs the 12 inch bias ply tires. Eddie English and his crew in Milton, Florida did a great job making the trailer frame and custom fitting all the accessories



06 Jun 17:

The Drascombe Association hosts an annual photo competition, a photo of Skipper and her Dad was a Runner Up. The photos were posted in the Summer 2017 Drascombe Association News number 121.



08 Jun 17:

Took the Lugger Onkahye out for a day sail, ran the motor and powered with the oars for a bit.

After we were done I shot a few pictures and video of how we have the boat set up.









Got buzzed by the US Navy's Blue Angels while we were out there.


23 Aug 17:

Onkahye in Corpus Christi circa 1982.


09 Jan 18:

Step by step how to make floorboards. First step, buy a boat with floorboards...

Here is our 1980 Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE guarding the cypress boards stored below her, we set those boards aside about 4 years ago for her starboard side floorboard. We bought enough boards to make both sides at once but only made the port side. Surprisingly the lumber is still there.



We made a new port side floorboard for the Drascombe Lugger about 4 years ago after someone whose name rhymes with Scott destroyed an aft plank. Actually Capn Scott was kind enough to point out a weak spot in the slowly rotting pine. The new floor was made from cypress.


We use 1x6 planks, which measure out to 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches. We bought 10 feet long boards with the excess being used to make the half planks and cross cleats. Lay them out UPSIDE DOWN and lay the old floor on top to trace the outside edge. We do it like this because later we have to screw on the cleats. We put a fingertip size gap between the boards to allow for air circulation, we wnat any water to flow easily into the bilge and not get trapped against the boards somewhere. The gap also provides a spot to hold, to ease handling during installation and removal.


If you want to lay the planks in the boat to set your plank spacing, draw some perpendicular lines to help line them back up in the boat. Do this BEFORE you pick the planks up to cut them. The planks are upside down so you can work on them, so they will need to be placed on the opposite side of the bilge. We recommend leaving a finger tip size gap around the outer edge of the floorboard, by the side seats, so that the floorboard and cleats will not interfere with where the fiberglass hull liner is bonded to the hull. With that small gap he boards fit loosely but do not slide around. If you want the boards to fit amazingly tight, then you are on your own :)




We use a DeWALT jigsaw to cut the plank edge.


Hold on to the offcuts to make the half planks and cleats. 3 main planks cut out but we still need to cut the little half planks that go ahead of and behind the centreplate* case. *So British, we call it the centrplate a centerboard her in the U.S. of A.


It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...

Measured the cleats to find width. This 1985ish floorboard was made old school by Capn Jack, he nailed them together. Several nails came in from the top and were clenched (bent over) to hold the shape. Then he flipped the floorboard and put smaller nails in from below, long enough to go through the cleat but not poke through the top of the floorboard, so they probably measured around 1 1/4 inch.


Set to table saw to 1 3/4 inches for the cleats.


Cut the cleats and small center planks from the offcuts. Use the smaller pieces first to optimize wood usage.


Transfer cleat length and angles to new cleat and also make note any bevels on the outer edges. Those are there to help get a snug fit for the floor, but not too tight.




Cut cleat angle ends and note bevels.


All cleats cut. Note the large bevels cut on the lower outer edges of the aft cleats. The hull tucks up and in there so a little extra clearance is needed.


Trace the half planks.


The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case.


The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case. Use the half planks to mark where the bevel starts.


Cut the centreplate case clearance bevel with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a DeWALT compact trim router. Only a DeWALT will work...don't try any others...#DeWALT


Centreplate clearance chamfer cut, that helps ease installing and removing the floorboard, no binding.


Ease the edges of the planks with a 1/8th inch roundover bit on a DeWalt compact trim router. Only DeWalt will work...


Coffee time.




We like a finger width gap for air circulation and ease of grabbling the floorboard when taking it in and out.


Drill a pilot hole and countersink with a Fuller combination bit. Attach the cleats with #10 1 1/4 inch silicone bronze screws, Frearson bit.




Here is the screw pattern that we like.


Assembly finito!


Mark finger hole location.


Drill a 1 inch finger hole. Or 1 1//8th inch if you don't have a 1 inch bit. Put a scrap piece of wood underneath to minimize blowout caused by the spade bit.


We sanded with 60 grit so we have a rough surface for traction. We left the sanding dust on there as well for grit. Applied one coat of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish to act as a sealer against grime. Flip the boards over and varnish the bottom, let dry and go sail/row/motor. For maintenance we may switch to teak oil. #totalboat.





It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...

10 Jan 18:

The original oars in our Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE had been overhauled by Capn Jack over 25 years ago, they had split grainwise along the blades. He glued them back together and added a metal strap around the tips, partly to hold them together and partly to act as an abrasion guard. He put on a nice coat of white paint with red and black at the tips, he may have been confused from hi airplane propeller painting days. They held up well with light usage. Fast forward to 2018 and we needed to spruce them up (pun intended) for a photo shoot. One of the tips had a chunk missing, so we cut a piece of cypress to rough size with a jigsaw and glued it into place with epoxy. We left the chunk fat on the sides so we could shape it after the epoxy dried.


I had bought some TotalBoat THIXO Low Viscosity thickened epoxy to try, I thought it would pump and mix easier out of the mixing tip. Pump easy it did, and as advertised the viscosity was low. Most of the epoxy ran right out of the oar tip onto our deck. I wanted thickened epoxy to fill a void in the tip and to provide a nice protective surface for the tip, plus act as a surface to fair. What I did at that point was dispense the epoxy into a cup and mixed collodial silica with it to thicken it to my desired peanut butter consistency, Not all was lost form the first round of epoxy, all the surfaces were wet and the thickened batch set well. I got the new cypress tip positioned and smoothed the ends with a coat of epoxy in prep for fairing While the epoxy was drying we sanded the looms with 120 grit, just knocked off the big chunks.


Tips ready for the 60 grit belt sander and 120 grit random orbital sander.


Shaped the tips then applied 2 coats of Rustoleum Marine Topside Oyster White and Bright Red. Tips were still tacky so the black had to wait. Our Lowes sells the Rustoleum and so does Jamestown Distributors.



http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/p/drascombe-lugger.html

11 Jan 18:

A video tour of how we set up ONKAHYE for the trailer ride to the boat ramp.



12 Jan 18:

Rigged the boat to show what gear is on board and other notes about when we launch. But first we addressed a common problem, sometimes the stay swage eyes get flipped over the tang on the mast eye and we don't notice it until the mast is up. Then the mast comes back down.


We are going to try a 3mm keeper line to keep the swage eyes in the right spot.


First up is a glamor shot video without sailing gear, and sails set to point out a few things. We always check the sails on the trailer to ensure they deploy correctly when we leave the dock.



A roller furling jib comes in handy to get to and from the ramp.



Next up a video showing where the gear is stowed and sails ready for slipping off the trailer at the ramp.



Our Suzuki 6 outboard (kind of) needed to be shimmed so that it could be tilted all the way to the top latch notch. We added a shim under the top aft of the mount feet to tilt the mount back about 3/8th inch. We also added a 1/8th inch wear pad under the aft mount feet and another wear strip under the lock screws.



19 Jan 18:

Our Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE has a roller furling jib, the jibstay is attached to the furler drum with a cotter pin and small cotter ring.


The cotter ring is very small and hard to manipulate, so we'll see if we can undo the shackle at the tack grommet vs the cotter ring. The shackle is there because the newer jib grommet on the Bartlett sail was a bit oversize to fit directly into the top of the furler drum. If that doesn't work, we are going to try a different size cotter ring or U shackle to see if we can make rigging the jibstay a little easier.


Here are some candidates for replacement parts. This also denotes the part size if anyone needs to order a replacement, 3/16th inch diameter by 3/4 inches long barrel.




We'll report the results! (Edit: The results are in. The U shackle was not a good idea, there was one more part to keep track of and it was hard to thread the pin through the shackle, then the furler tang, then the jibstay shackle, then the furler tang again and finally into the U shackle. So we'll scrap that and go back to the cotter pin, but add a bigger cotter ring, and next time try undoing the shackle on the end of the jibstay).

23 Jan 18:

We slid ONKAHYE off the trailer today in a drop of dew, thanks to the great drop leaf trailer that Eddie English set up for us. Top of the tire not even under water but the boat is floating.



The plan was to get her over to the strap lift while we had the tide to use the ramp. Motored over with the Suzuki 6 and got her in the straps.




I stepped the mast while the boat was in the lift, that was a first. Had to move a little slower but got everything rigged in about 40 minutes.


Took a few shots then we watched the sunset.


25 Jan 18:

Spoiler alert, we sailed ONKAHYE today to get some photos for a digital magazine, the pictures should be published soon. We watched the tide all morning, 7 inches at the wet end of the dock early in the morning but the ride was flooding. I walked around in my Muck Boots and took a few measurements, time for coffee.


Since the tide was out I got a chance to look over ONKAHYE's bottom. Looks pretty good, bottom paint is over 25 years old and we have some more to apply, maybe next week if the tide is still low. Capn Jack put the bottom paint on a long time ago when ONKAHYE stayed in a slip, but since then she has been a trailer sailer.


The Lugger draws 9 inches with the centerplate up, but we need around 30 inches to drop in the rudder. Once the rudder is in is can swing up for the shallows, but we run a risk of bending things if we spend too much time there. We also need 30 inches of water to remove the rudder. Luggers rudders were also made with a fixed blade, but it is smaller.



We finally got 10 inches at the wet end of the dock, so we off we went, under power of the Suzuki 6, tilted up to the shoal tilt notch (2nd). Could have rowed out or poled out for that matter.


On the way out we dropped the centerboard about halfway, the Lugger draws 4 feet with the board all the way down, couldn't go out that far because the Skipper was on the dock with the zoom lens. Shipped the rudder once we go to about 3 feet of water, then worked bow to stern on the sails. Unfurled the jib, raised the main and loosed the mizzen. Once under sail we killed the motor, raised it to the sailing tilt notch (3rd)) and started the high speed passes for the photog. Here is one shot but the rest will be published once the magazine picks the ones that they would like to use. We took over 100, so there will be plenty.

Running wing and wing to reposition for the next pass....not by design, just worked out that way :)


After about 20 minutes of tacking, jibing, whifferdilling and donutting I stowed all the sails and went to take out the rudder. During the sail I had to raise the centerboard several times but the rudder would swing up on its own. It was dragging aft in the shallows so it wouldn't come out, so we motored out to deeper water where it could drop vertical and I removed the rudder there. By removed I mean I pulled it vertical so the tip cleared the bottom of the hull and put in the rudder chock to hold it in place. If I had bent it I would have just jumped overboard and swam out the sea, never to be seen again, rather than face the Skipper and stand before the mast. On a note of importance, this was the first time she had seen her boat under sail, a proud moment for her to see her cherished possession out sailing the high seas.


ONKAHYE went back on the strap lift, we downrigged her and took a break. Here's a little common sense tip, when raising or lowerin the mast, we tray to make sure that the area we'll be walking on is clear and the stays, sheets, sails, fenders, lifejackets etc... are not going to be in the way or snag something.

Before tidying up, sails and lines underfoot.


Ready to walk backwards while lowering a 16 foot mast.


Strap lift ramblings. The strap lift lets us drop a boat all the way to the bottom, whereas the cradle lift adds about 10 inches because of the cradle. The straps work great on the fiberglass boats, but we like a cradle with bunks under the wooden boat.




Rowed back over to the trailer, loaded up in about 18 inches of water. The drop frame/drop axle trailer that Eddie English built for us make loading and unloading easy.




Fresh water rinse for the boat and trailer, teak oil for the teak, ran a motor in a bucket, a great way to end the day.




Wait, this is a great way to end the day!


Feb 2018: ONKAHYE was the star of an article we wrote for Small Boats Monthly.

19 Jun 18:

We did some yard sailing for Father's Day and it was time to get ONKAHYE out for a little cruise. We planned to just launch and tie up, then sail later, but the winds were nice so we decided to sail for a bit.


Took some pictures for our upcoming knot book.

Anchor line.


Jib sheet.


Main halyard.


Side stay.


We still love the ease of the sliding gunter rig, easy to set up.


Every boat needs a pin rail.


Saw about 20 dolphin today, they circled us for a while.




We practiced beaching and dropped the hook for a while. ONKAHYE was well behaved.





to be continued....

FMI:
Churchouse Boats - New Luggers, Dabbers and more
Drascombe Association - Low dues, quarterly newsletter, nice sticker, a Forum and great people
Drascombe facebook page
Sailboat Data Lugger

2 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing that Nice lugger! How do you like your electric pusher? Do you have a big battery, and is it easy enough to charge?

    Also, the furling gear looks new. How is that working for you?

    ReplyDelete
  2. The trolling motor works great, it has a 4 hour marine battery, very easy to charge. We also use the battery on our Daysailer. The motor would not push you into a heavy wind, but is good to get in and out of marinas and crowded boat ramps. The furling gear came with the boat, it has worked well since 1980. We sailed a lot without any motor and liked to use the jib to get in close to the dock, then be able to furl it quickly right before we landed.

    ReplyDelete