Thursday, July 11, 2019

Grumman 17 SCOUT 05 Jul 19 Sea Trial Expanded Notes

11 Jul 19:


Sea Trial Notes (for Doug, substitute yard for gaff): A few more musings on the SCOUT's canoe yawl Sea Trials. We have to be careful launching because the sail rig makes SCOUT a little top heavy, so we leave the stern up on the beach until it is time to go. If we raise the gaff on the beach, we have to keep an eye on it, because if the boom swings off to the side the hull wants to roll with it. I boarded the canoe and sat on the bar thwart just aft of the leeboard thwart. On a side note the leeboard thwart makes a real nice seat amidships, and so does the daggerboard for that matter. I lowered the Skipper's swivel leeboard easily and paddled away from the beach with the kayak paddle, aka double paddle.


Once clear of the sand groins and piers, we turned into the light breeze to raise the sails.



To raise the gaff I grabbed both the throat and peak halyard and pulled them together. I had changed both halyards to longer pieces of line, so that the lines reach all the way to the stern seat when the rig is down, so that is 30+ feet of line, 2 of them. I pulled them until the throat halyard was taut, then continued to pull on the peak halyard until the sail peaked to a nice shape, there should be no sags and no tight vertical creases. At that point I looked around for a convenient place to secure the halyards, that day I tied them off to the aft bar thwart, and made a note to cut a small wooden thwart to mount jam cleats there, close to the stern seat. I may also add a ring fairlead on the leeboard thwart, to keep the lines off to one side in case there is someone sitting amidchips. One of the test items for the sail rigging was to see if I could do most of the work from the stern seat, and if I had the cleats back aft I could do that.



I sheeted in the mizzen and found that the boomkin is too short, the painters cloth stretched and also saw from later photos that the mast needs to be taller, that way we can tie off the mizzen a bit higher and change the boomkin angle a bit, raise the forward end about 2 inches so we can take the flutter out of the leech of the sail. Next we did a few paddle tacks, which were a lot easier with the leeboard to provide some lateral resistance and aid in steering.



Then it was time to maneuver back to the dock for glamor shots. I was able to do a few wide tacks, once the breeze gets on the beam there is a lot of freeboard and SCOUT wants to go sideways, I found that gybing my way around was easier, same thing we found on the Dabber with its standing lug rig.



After a few flybys of the Skipper/photog I raised the swivel leeboard, crawled forward and dropped in the daggerboard/leeboard. This would require some good balance if the wind or chop was up a bit, that's a lot of movement fore and aft to the stern seat.





Now about that seat, the balance would be better if I sat forward, on the bar thwart just aft of the mid leeboard thwart. But that is not what the Seminole did...of course he did not have a leeboard or mizzen either...


Anyway, the daggerboard was bigger and I could feel the difference, that would be best for bay crossings in deeper water. For gunkholing and skinny water ops, the swivel leeboard is better. I did a few turns with the daggerboard, then pulled it out and went back to the swivel leeboard. Skipper wanted to see it in action again and we drifted up to the beach with it down, easy to raise, then I put it down again to watch it feather into the retracted position as the bottom came up to meet it.



The swivel leeboard is the best design for beaching, whereas the dagger-leeboard will raise itself up in the trunk, sometimes, it the curved edge is forward, but it is not guaranteed. The other issue with a daggerboard sticking up out of a trunk is the boom can catch on it and cause the shoreline capsize after a beautiful sail, usually when everyone is watching.

Pulling the canoe up onto the beach, the same note applies as launching, SCOUT was more steady with her flat bottom securely on the grass, but she can still roll over if the sail is up and boom swinging around. It is also easy to point into the wind, loose the halyards and drop the rig, so far the gaff and boom have dropped straight into the boat and laid nicely on the thwarts. Downrigging was pretty easy, there is just a lot of line to manage. The boom and gaff fold up almost all the way and the mizzen boomkin folds up also, the rig does not take much storage space. I removed the leeboard thwart as it is big, not needed for paddling, and SCOUT could not be stored on her side with it attached, but the main and mizzen thwarts are tucked out of the way.









Updated the Marine Traffic Control Board.


Next up, ergonomic testing for cupholders and rudder attachment ponderings. Anyone have an idea on how to attach a Sunfish gudgeon to the stern of SCOUT without drilling holes? Ooh, as I type I think I see a potential solution...




Log of SCOUT.

2 comments:

  1. Very interesting report, it seems that most things worked quite well, but reading between the lines I suspect the biggest question hovers around the Lee board/dagger board. Whilst they are simple, I've never been a fan of dagger boards, they're either in or out or just in the way. The Drascombe Skiff was designed to have a dagger board, but I changed that on my Skiff to a swivel centre board, utilising the original centre case without alteration. There was no significant difference in how it performed, but it was much easier to use. All of the Skiffs I built after that were supplied with a galvanized steel centre plate to the same pattern as the Wooden centre plate on my own Skiff. This brings me to thinking about your canoe, swivelling leeboards would seem to be the most convenient and less obtrusive, to gain the extra depth a dagger board offers, longer leeboards housed in a fore and aft sliding collar or track arrangement would allow for complete adjustment of depth to centre of effort. I haven't thought through the sliding arrangement, but I'm certain a simple easy to operate system feasable. A shock cord and lifting line as used on a folding rudder would control the depth of the leeboards. That's just my thoughts, and something I've considered for the tri-canoe I've been thinking about. You can ignore my ramblings as nonsense if you wish, I won't be offended 🤔😉
    A yard is suspended from a halyard and it crosses the mast, a gaff is a yard that's suspended from a halyard with the lower end held to the mast with a set of Jaws. 👍

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  2. Hi Doug,

    Great notes, well founded given your professional experience building beautiful wooden Drascombes for a living and adapting them to your preferred ease of use. The swivel board is convenient, and could be set up with control lines vs a tiller handle. We'd love to hear more about the tri-canoe! And thanks for the explanation of gaff and yard differences, the clearest I've seen.

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