29 Dec 16:
Tuned the edges of the 2 1/2 inch side seat slats. I had some peaks and troughs, but knew I had a little excess to work with because I wanted a pencil size gap between the slats. So I got the outer edge of the first plank faired with a Black and Decker belt sander and 40 grit, then used a Stanley combination square to scribe a line 2 1/4 inches onto the inside curve. Belt sanded that line to fair curve. By fair curve I mean that when you look down the edge it has a constant, smooth radius vs bumps and dips. If it looks right then it is right, we don't want the eye to catch on a chowdered up area.
Nestled the next slat next the first slat and used a divider compass to find the biggest gap between the two, then scribed the inner slat fair curve to the face of the next slats outer curve. Sanded to fair. Repeat. Scribe. Sand. Scribe. Sand. Scribe. Sand. Scribe. Sand. Then I routed the edges of all the slats with a 1/2 inch roundover bit on a Dewalt compact trim router. Don't round over the aft beveled edge, that takes all of the bevel off! Ask me how I know...
Next I cut a 3/4 inch riser from a nice piece of 1 1/2 thick cypress for support under inboard slat, it curves from under the middle seat back to the bulkhead. Used our Dewalt jigsaw for the cut. Attached riser with silicone bronze screws.
We really like how the TotalBoat Wood Sealer and Gleam varnish are turning out. It is exactly the satin sheen and hue we hoped for on the cypress seats and centerboard case cap. We will build up a few more coats for protection but the coverage, flow and leveling have been outstanding so far. href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9G5w3GaXzxk/WGZ7q_l2LmI/AAAAAAAATqg/clGAjzGJLFkiDwTMGVI_eXtyRReNdqBsQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">