There are some great sales going on at Sailrite right now, $65 USD off on one of their great machines and free shipping on order over $149. We bought an LSZ-1 sewing machine (Straight stitch plus zig zag, and all important walking foot for thick fabric folds) based on Scott's recommendation a few years back and have truly enjoyed using it. Skipper is a talented seamstress with decades of experience and she loves her machine. We have quickly recouped the cost by sewing a sail, several boat covers, repairing other items and making a rain fly for CYANE. Sailrite has great videos on their youtube channel and website to tutor folks through any project, there is even one specific to Sunfish covers with a Mast Up zipper added. FMI: https://www.sailrite.com/ and feel please ask us or the Sailrite Tech Team any questions that you might have. Cheers, Clark and Skipper
Skipper tutored me through making a duck cloth dust cover for VICTORY, it will be used to keep out tree bits and critters, also for road trips. Sewn together with 100% cotton duck cloth 8.85 oz/yd, UV resistant thread, with 1 inch webbing tie down tabs and a gunwale drawstring. We purchased the fabric from Joanns, the webbing and thread from Sailrite and the drawstring/tiedown line (clothesline) from Walmart. The sewing machine is a Sailrite LSZ-1, which sews straight and zig zag stitching.
We cut two 6 yard pieces of 60 inch wide duck cloth.
Made a center seam with double backed seam tape.
10 foot wide by 18 foot long blank.
Stitched the center seam, we used a Sailrite LSZ-1, 5mm zig zag.
Took the cover out to Dabber to mark stem, gunwales and transom, side overlap and seam allowance.
Cut reinforcement panels for the stem and transom. Turned under edges and stitched. Used seam tape to attach panels then sewed reinforcement panel to underside of the cover. Realized the panel is in wrong spot, rip out the seam and reattached to correct spot. We used the Skipper's Sailrite LSZ-1, straight stitch with UV resistant thread.
First fitting of stem, Skipper gathered the excess and we sewed down the gathers from underneath to form "darts."
First fitting to check heighth of drawstring pocket. We cut the overlap 8 inches down, with a planned allowance for a 1/2 inch seam and a 2 1/2 inch pocket, so the finished cover will overlap the sides by 5 inches.
Marked the cover for tiedown tabs, one tab on the bow, one 1 foot back, then spaced 2 feet apart to the transom, and 4 on the transom.
Turned under a 1/2 inch seam so the raw edge doesn't show, and provide good fabric to sew through. Pressed the seam with a steam iron.
Turned under a 2 1/2 inch seam for the drawstring pocket, pressed it down with a steam iron.
Opened a V notch in the middle of the transom drawstring pocket for the drawstring to exit.
Sewed the edge of the V notch BEFORE sewing the drawstring pocket, this is where the pocket is OPEN for the ends of the drawstring to exit.
Drawstring pocket V notch seam.
50 feet of line is plenty. This line is from WalMart and will last a while, and only cost about 4 dollars.
We started closing up the drawstring pocket at the bow, it is easiest to lay the line in the pocket and then sew the seam. It would have been even easier to start at one side of the transom pocket with about 5 feet of line hanging out and go all the way around the edge.
Port side of the drawstring pocket finished. The Sailrite LSZ-1 was very tolerant of my rookie sewing effort. I even got to wind bobbins! Tip: Wind several bobbins before sewing to avoid having to rethread the machine halfway through a project.
Skipper used the Sailrite Edge hot knife to cut the tiedown tabs, her second favorite thing behind pasting.
Tiedown tabs, with 2 rows of stitching. Note the extra stitching for the reinforcement panel for the stem.
Starboard side of the cover. Tiedown tabs, with 2 rows of stitching. We tie the tiedown line with a bowline on the port side of the trailer, usually the road side, the starboard side has a slip knot or some half hitches. This way if we have to untie the cover while on the shoulder we will not be on the road side with traffic. Now if you live in the UK...
Port side of the cover. Tiedown tabs, with 2 rows of stitching. We tie the tiedown line with a bowline on the port side of the trailer, usually the road side.
Before we hit the road we tuck the loose ends of the tiedowns up under the drawstring pocket, there is enough tension to secure the lines and keep them from whipping the finish off of the boat. In other news, ST. JACQUES' Sunbrella cover still looks great after a year of use and 2 tropical storms. And in case you're wondering, that tarp is stuffed in the outboard cutout to keep VICTORY from becoming a critter condo.
Now before you run out and buy duck, please understand what is is and isn't good for...Skipper wanted a nice dust cover for VICTORY's road trip to her new homeport in North Carolina, she wanted to keep the price under $75 USD. We bought 100% cotton duck from Joanns Fabric at the store, it is available online as well. Used a 60 percent off coupon on one cut and a 40 percent on the other cut, we needed 6 yards per panel and you can't get 12 yards from a 10 yard bolt. For those thinking of a project like this make sure to get the correct width and weight, in our case 59 inches and 8.85 oz/yd. Colored duck cloth is not color fast we use natural or bleached now, vs watching the color bleed onto the boat after a rain shower (Reference the maroon cover on ONKAHYE in 1996). The duck will also mildew over time and the stains will not likely come out, that is why we use it for a dust cover or road cover that is not out in the weather long term. Duck is not water resistant or waxed, so it would not make a good outside cover. For mildew resistance, breathability, water repellency, ease of cleaning and long term outdoor durability, the better choice is marine grade Sunbrella. FMI: Duck https://www.joann.com/jo-ann-stores-duck.../prd23683.html
FMI: Sunbrella https://www.sailrite.com/Sunbrella-6001-0000-Pacific-Blue-60
We got our tanbark spritsail kit from Sailrite, rolled out the panels, (Edit: Now is a good time to sew on reef point reinforcement patches, BEFORE panels go together), seamed them with double back tape and sewed the panel seams together on the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1. Made a few adjustments to the machine first, lots of pressure foot tension is required.
Skipper knocked me over to get to the sail.
Here is everything that came with the kit, plus we ordered #4 and #1 grommet tools.
The vertical panels for the spritsail come on a roll. Save the tube, you might use it later to roll up parts of the sail when sewing.
This is the double sided tape used to baste the panels together. It is awesome. We pressed one side down, then peeled off the white protective layer a little at a time when we basted the panels together.
Here are the panels laid out, ready to baste. STOP. Now is the time to sew on the reef point reinforcement patches, that way you only one panel has to be manipulated through the machine vs the whole sail.
The instructions told us what stitch width and length we needed. The sail can also be sewn with a straight switch machine.
Sewed the first panel with the Sailrite LSZ-1 machine.
Skipper sewed her first sail panel!
Sail panels all sewn.
Skipper has been sewing for many years, and she has a Masters Degree in Costume design. So she knows her way around a sewing machine and it is a treat to watch her manipulate fabric.
Everything came out great, corner and reef point reinforcements next, then grommets.
08 Jun 17:
Sewed on some of the reinforcing patches for the tack, reef tack and peak of the sprit sail. They are 4 layers of different size material, smallest patch goes on first. We taped them all together then taped them on the sail on the marked locations.
The reef point patches are placed differently than the tack and clew patches. They also may need to be trimmed. So take a minute to review the instructions before sewing. We didn't but they still look nice and will work as needed.
Reinforcement patches were 4 layers thick and they are installed with the smallest patch on the bottom of the stack. We used a chalk pencil to mark their location on the top side of the biggest patch so we knew where to sew. On white fabric you may be able to see the layers through the fabric. If not use a pencil to mark where to sew.
More patches. This sail is four sided so there are extra corners and edges.
Reef patches need to be trimmed and placed lower than tack and clew patches.
Sewing a sail takes a lot of presser foot tension.
Here are the settings we used for stitch width and length.
16 Jun 17:
Cut a 3 inch square pattern for the reef point patches.
Cut the 3 inch square reef point patches, 2 per reef point.
Marked location for reef point patches with a chalk pencil.
Wound another bobbin.
Basted the reef point patches with double sided tape.
Sewed on the reef point patches. Would have been easier to do before the panels were sewn together. A LOT easier!
Basted the double hem with double sided tape. First fold is to the hem line, pull the protective cover off of the tape. Press the fabric down. Then baste again and fold over a second time to cover the edges of the reinforcing patches.
Baste, fold, crease, pull and press a second time
Fini!
Sewed the hem about 1/8 inch from the inner edge.
Sewed the prefolded 2 inch luff reinforcing tape.
Creased, basted and sewed the 3 inch luff tape.
Last stitch on the sail.
Time for grommets! Placed the male grommet and marked the inner circle with chalk. These are #4 grommets.
Poked a starter hole with the Skipper's pokey thing.
Cut the hole. Go slow and check the fit frequently. The grommet should fit snug.
Placed the male grommet half in the base.
Placed the female half of the grommet over the material and bottom grommet.
Placed the anvil.
Pounded the grommet until we couldn't see between the grommet and the fabric. Usually 4-5 hits.
Check the inner edge of the grommet to see if the lip of the male grommet rolled over the edge of the female grommet.
Reef point grommets are #1 size.
The final grommet, also know as "The Wine Grommet. Notice I found a bigger maul.
