We gathered up all of the rigging and hardware for the Wheel Deck boat hoist, most of it is Wilcox, Crittenden and Company, Inc. bronze halyard blocks, eyestraps and snap shackles and the line is vintage Sunfish sheets. There are two different cleats that are not for Sunfish, but also Wilcox and Crittenden. One is an interesting little jam cleat.
Finished up the final bits before sea trials for VIPER. Inspection ports, deck hardware, coaming, gudgeon, bailer.
Cut a larger hole for the aft inspection port with a DeWALT jigsaw, taped the deck first to reduce scratches. The hole is drawn using the port cap, flipping it over and tracing around the outside of it. Don't trace around the outside of the mounting ring, you'll have a really big hole :)
Sealed the port with a bead of TotalBoat Seal. One trick we have is to run a bead of sealant around the port outer ring, put the ring in place and give it a 1/2 turn to spread out the sealant. Drilled holes for the hardware. Secured the ports with #6 stainless steel machine screws, washers and stop nuts. I bought screws that were long enough so I can reach them to put on washers and stop nuts, plus I bought a deep socket that will hold the nut while the screw is tightened. One BIG tip is to buy a couple extra washers and nuts, because they are hard to find if they get dropped inside the hull.
Drilled pilot holes for the bow handle #8 x 1 inch stainless wood screws, oval phillips head.
Drilled piilot holes for the halyard cleat and halyard block, installed with #8 silicone bronze screws long enough to catch the 3/4 inch wooden backer blocks under the deck. It is a good thing to see dry wood shavings come out when the pilot hole is drilled.
Drilled the 3/16th inch pilot holes for the coaming rivets. It is important to buy the proper rivet, aluminum 3/16th inch closed end. They need to be closed end so water will not get into the hull. I also put a small bead of sealant in the rivet hole before installation.
Tapped the edge trim into place with a rubber hammer. Drilled 1/8th inch pilot holes for the edge trim rivets, which do not need to be closed end but they need a grip range of about 1/2 inch. Once again it is easiest to buy the rivets from a Sunfish Dealer. Be careful to only drill through the top of the trim and the deck edge, not all the way through, that is enough to hold on the trim. If the drill goes all the way through, take a file and remove any sharp burrs that are finger slicers. We also go back and file the top of the rivet to make them smooth.
Installed the gudgeon with #10 stainless machine screws. The metal backer plate inside is tapped for the screws, no need for washers and stop nuts. I add a small dab of sealant around each screw hole before installation.
Installed the swivel cam cleat and the sheet hook. The screws for the swivel cam cleat come through under the cockpit lip, they do not go inside the hull.
Added a retaining line to the daggerboard, so it doesn't float away during a capsize. Skipper prefers the simple line over a bungee, it makes it easy for her to pull the board out one handed when beaching. Otherwise she keeps it down most of the time, or if on a run the water pressure holds it where she wants it.
Made a parts haul a few months back, finally sorted them. There was some hardware dating back to the 1960s in there. It appears every part of the boat has changed since its inception.
Installed the coaming, it screwed back in pretty easy. I was able to press 4 seized up screws with rivnuts back into original holes and seal with epoxy
Both wooden backer blocks for the eyestraps had fallen off. I had to dig through some foam on each side to find them, luckily they had not gone too far. I put some silicone on them, flipped them around, held them in place while Jack drilled a pilot hole. Then we dropped in a screw, put on the bridle and put in remaining screw. That was a satisfying sound to hear them snug up to the deck when we tightened them
Jack puts in the inspection port for the first time. We had to take it back out in order to have more room when the backer block issue arose. Plus the hardware was goofed up, I had some stop nuts that were the wrong size. I grabbed them from the bin at the hardware store without checking ALL of them. I normally do, but I was rushed because I was last customer in store. Also remember to pick up a few extra, in case something gets lost in hull
