1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 bottom is finished, 4th coat of Rust-Oleum sprayed, we bumped it up to Gloss White to compete with the Kirby #4 Orange.
Log of SUGAR 2.
Showing posts with label rustoleum. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rustoleum. Show all posts
Monday, July 16, 2018
1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 16 Jul 18 Hull Paint
16 Jul 18:
1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 bottom is finished, 4th coat of Rust-Oleum sprayed, we bumped it up to Gloss White to compete with the Kirby #4 Orange.
Log of SUGAR 2.
1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 bottom is finished, 4th coat of Rust-Oleum sprayed, we bumped it up to Gloss White to compete with the Kirby #4 Orange.
Log of SUGAR 2.
Saturday, July 14, 2018
1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 14 Jul 18 Seam Repair
14 Jul 18:
Repaired a seam split with TotalBoat THIXO, light clamping. Used a syringe to inject it into the tight spots, and the mixing tip for the center void.
Sanded off the grass bits with 120 grit.
Sprayed 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Semi Gloss White.
Log of Sugar 2.
Repaired a seam split with TotalBoat THIXO, light clamping. Used a syringe to inject it into the tight spots, and the mixing tip for the center void.
Sanded off the grass bits with 120 grit.
Sprayed 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Semi Gloss White.
Log of Sugar 2.
Thursday, July 12, 2018
1978 AMF Sunfish SUGAR 2 12 Jul 18 Big Oops
12 Jul 18:
Problems in Production. We decided to paint the bottom middle section of SUGAR 2 about 10 days ago to cover the various fiberglass repair areas, selected a top notch grade of Rust-Oleum Semi-Gloss White spray paint. Sprayed on 2 1/2 cans and it looked FANTASTIC. Then it started to sprinkle, so I decided to roll the work dolly back inside the Carriage House. I have a line tied to the dolly and can roll it off the deck, swing around the ramp and pull it up into the shop. Well I swung a little fast and the boat slid off of the dolly, onto the side, teetered for a dramatic pause then rolled onto its bottom in the fresh cut grass and pine needles. I swear it wiggled around a for a bit like a lab puppy in something smelly before coming to final rest. I was speechless for about 3 minutes, said a few salty words and finally figured out a way to get SUGAR 2 back up on the dolly with help of Skipper and the team without getting us all covered in freshly painted grass. We picked off the pine needles and some of the grass, but it will have to dry so I can sand it again. Stay tuned :)
This is after the pine needles were picked off. Skipper pointed out that I got paint on her grass.
Problems in Production. We decided to paint the bottom middle section of SUGAR 2 about 10 days ago to cover the various fiberglass repair areas, selected a top notch grade of Rust-Oleum Semi-Gloss White spray paint. Sprayed on 2 1/2 cans and it looked FANTASTIC. Then it started to sprinkle, so I decided to roll the work dolly back inside the Carriage House. I have a line tied to the dolly and can roll it off the deck, swing around the ramp and pull it up into the shop. Well I swung a little fast and the boat slid off of the dolly, onto the side, teetered for a dramatic pause then rolled onto its bottom in the fresh cut grass and pine needles. I swear it wiggled around a for a bit like a lab puppy in something smelly before coming to final rest. I was speechless for about 3 minutes, said a few salty words and finally figured out a way to get SUGAR 2 back up on the dolly with help of Skipper and the team without getting us all covered in freshly painted grass. We picked off the pine needles and some of the grass, but it will have to dry so I can sand it again. Stay tuned :)
This is after the pine needles were picked off. Skipper pointed out that I got paint on her grass.
Monday, May 22, 2017
St. Jacques 22 May 17 Paint and Varnish
22 May 17:
Added forward seat cleat. Sanded interior and gunwale. Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White on the interior. Jamestown Distributors TotalBoat Wood Sealer the Gleam Varnish Satin for rail caps and gunwale. #totalboat
Click here for complete build log.
Added forward seat cleat. Sanded interior and gunwale. Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White on the interior. Jamestown Distributors TotalBoat Wood Sealer the Gleam Varnish Satin for rail caps and gunwale. #totalboat
Click here for complete build log.
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
1950s Alcort Sailfish "Winnie"
Our friend spotted an Alcort Sailfish for sale up in NY, and he thought we might want it. So he bought it and brought it down to us during his annual Florida run. We in turn bought it from him and also scored a mast and spars for another restoration project on a Sunfish. Her name is Winnie.
The Sailfish is just under 12 feet long and it has a 65 sf sail. The spars measure 11'7" and it has a tiny rudder. This boat was taken apart for refinishing but the previous owner lost interest....17 years ago. It is in great shape and we'll get to it as we finish up on Barbashela and St. Jacques.
The bare hull weighs 92 pounds, came with all the parts. Just needs caulk and paint, yellow paint that is, like she was originally.
Alcort Sailfish logo.jpg
Kind of like a kit boat!
Rudder mechanism.
1950s Alcort Sailfish mast step and bow handle after a little teak oil, vinegar and metal polish.
Yep those are bronze rivets.
Check out that mast and wooden spars.
18 May 16: Winnie has her first top coat of Valspar Ultra 4000 Alkyd Enamel, Whipped Apricot. She will remind us of Barbashela. So much so that we decided on her final name, "Winnie."
19 May 16: Skipper loves Winnie, can't wait to get her on the water.
65 sf of sail, 11'7" long, 3' beam, 92 pounds.
65 sf Sailfish sail over a 75 sf Sunfish sail.
21 May 16: Winnie went to the Bagdad Riverfest with Zip. Notice where we painted the sides with Rustoleum Topside Oyster White and added an oak rub strip, stained and sealed with Minwax Polyurethane Mission Oak, attached with #6 brass screws.
23 May 16: Skipper takes Winnie out for the first time in many years. Nice light wind day for a test sail.
to be continued...
The Sailfish is just under 12 feet long and it has a 65 sf sail. The spars measure 11'7" and it has a tiny rudder. This boat was taken apart for refinishing but the previous owner lost interest....17 years ago. It is in great shape and we'll get to it as we finish up on Barbashela and St. Jacques.
The bare hull weighs 92 pounds, came with all the parts. Just needs caulk and paint, yellow paint that is, like she was originally.
Alcort Sailfish logo.jpg
Kind of like a kit boat!
Rudder mechanism.
1950s Alcort Sailfish mast step and bow handle after a little teak oil, vinegar and metal polish.
Yep those are bronze rivets.
Check out that mast and wooden spars.
18 May 16: Winnie has her first top coat of Valspar Ultra 4000 Alkyd Enamel, Whipped Apricot. She will remind us of Barbashela. So much so that we decided on her final name, "Winnie."
19 May 16: Skipper loves Winnie, can't wait to get her on the water.
65 sf of sail, 11'7" long, 3' beam, 92 pounds.
65 sf Sailfish sail over a 75 sf Sunfish sail.
21 May 16: Winnie went to the Bagdad Riverfest with Zip. Notice where we painted the sides with Rustoleum Topside Oyster White and added an oak rub strip, stained and sealed with Minwax Polyurethane Mission Oak, attached with #6 brass screws.
23 May 16: Skipper takes Winnie out for the first time in many years. Nice light wind day for a test sail.
to be continued...
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Merci Hull and Foam Block Repair
Our boat Merci has ridden out several hurricanes, had a botched repair attempt, poor paint job and looks like she spent some time rubbing on some rocks. Other than that, the loose foam block, multiple hull punctures, ripped out bow handle and the homemade rudder attachment, she is in fine shape. There is damage to the hull gelcoat down to the fiberglass, so we are starting out with some exploratory sanding to see how much damage needs to be removed. Once we assess that we can draw up a game plan on whether we will need to fair the entire hull with a compound or just the seriously damaged areas.
Started cutting holes for blind patches in bow, keel forward of daggerboard and keel under the cockpit, using a rotozip. Make sure the bit is set shallow so it does not cut into cockpit tub.
Found a lot of dirt in the hull, used to be mud.
Also found port bow flotation block is loose, tried to push it back into place from theis cutout but the old foam is in the way. Merci must have taken quite a tumble in one of the hurricanes to dislodge that block. This changes our plan for blind patches, as now we need to split the hull in order to remove the old 2 part expanding foam and reset the block.
Here is about 5 pounds of dirt that we have vacuumed out of the hull so far.
There are several experiments going on here.
1) I did some light sanding on the chine and sprayed it with blue rustoleum, to see if the paint would cover any of the scrapes. Answer is no. But now when I sand I will know I am getting to good base materials, through all of the chips, scrapes and gouges when all of the blue spray paint disappears.
2) Same idea with the red Interlux Brightside, how much would it cover? Not Much.
3) the white area is epoxy putty, would it fill in the gouges and smooth out the crunchy spots? Nope.
I sanded a test area with a random orbital sander and 80 grit pads, lots of them, from the port bow back about 6 feet. By watching where the red paint was disappearing from the valleys while sanding, it was easy to see where I needed to sand more. I left 2 hand size areas partially sanded, then rolled/tipped the area with Interlux Brightside Bluglo White. The fully sanded areas came out looking great, the partially sanded areas will need to be completely sanded down through most of the gelcoat. The great news is that the crunchy areas do not go into the fiberglass and epoxy and will not need to be faired! We will be able to see some dips in the gelcoat but the surface will be smooth.
I'll get a better picture, in this one the newly sanded area is so smooth and shiny that it picked up the reflection of the pine tree overhead. I'll also get some picture of how the sanding progressed, down through the red paint and gelcoat to the fiberglass and epoxy.
Built a work cradle that will support boat hull side up and deck side up, with removable bunks, it also has rollers and the sawhorses will come out if I want.
Split the deck/hull seam to get inside for hull repairs. For more information on splitting a deck,see the post on Foam Repair.
Here are the areas to be repaired from inside. As it turns out all of the backer blocks are decayed, completely gone and will need to be replaced, so having the hull split will make that easy. The fiberglass hangar stuck to the deck is for the halyard cleat backer block. The pegs sticking through the hull in the background are the securing rivet nuts (rivnuts) for the coaming. The backer block hanger for the bow handle is broken and needs to be repaired. The hanger for the halyard block backer block is gone also.
INTERMISSION
This piece needed to be cutout, that is crushed and punctured fiberglass where the epoxy is clouded. It needs to be replaced.
Cutting out a fiberglass cloth patch for the inside. Make it bigger than the repair area and cut out 4-5 layers. We only did one at first and it was not stiff enough.
I cut out the damaged area and taped this keel section back in place.
Epoxied the backer patch into place, 4-5 layers would be optimum. I was able to reach the area with a long handles brush, but needed to tape a stick to the mixing cup in order to get the epoxy poured.
Cut out a backer patch for the bow repair.
Made a backer patch for the keel repair under the cockpit. I used the cut out piece as a form, wax paper so I can remove the backer and slide it inside the hull.
Used cardboard and string to pull the backer patch tight inside the hull. Epoxied everything into place, tied it up with paint sticks while it dried.
Keel patch is drying, it will need fiberglass cloth added where damaged areas are cut out. Completed first sanding to see what areas need to be built up some more.
Added five layers of fiberglass to build up the bow repair, then sanded.
31 Oct 2013: Added 3 additional layers of fiberglass inside for the keel patch just ahead of daggerboard trunk.
To reach this area I needed a paint stick to position the cloth, a cup on a stick to pour the epoxy resin and a long handled brush to embed the resin.
I used one of the foam blocks to prop open the deck.
Also put 4 layers of cloth under the bow handle hole...
Then 4 layers in the hole and sanded. Test fit the bow handle.
...and then let Merci get a little sun.
While the deck was open we replaced the backer blocks for the bow handle, halyard cleat and halyard block. The old blocks were rotted away. This backer blocks are held in place by adhesive and a fiberglass strip.
I cut new backer blocks out of rot resistant cypress.
Secured new backer blocks with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive sealant.
Found one bridle eyestrap backer block in the hull, so those will be replaced also.
Finished the foam reset and epoxied the deck and hull back together. See Foam Repair for more pictures.
The bridle eyestrap used to go here, in fact the old one is there in the bottom right of the picture.
Went throught the inspection port on the stern and tunneled through the foam to install new bridle eyestrap backer blocks, held them in place with screws while they dry.
Finished sanding the deck with 80 grit.
Flipped the boat and removed 2 coats of old blue paint and gouges in the gelcoat, had to sand through the gelcoat in a few areas.
Finished the port hull!
Finished the starboard hull.
Reattached the keel section with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.
After epoxy dried, troweled on first layer of marine epoxy putty.
Made a blind patch with cardboard, 3 layers of fiberglass cloth and a coat hanger.
Epoxied the blind patch into the hull, pulled it tight with the coat hanger.
Added 4 layers of 6 oz fiberglass cloth, bonded with West System 105 Epoxy resin and 207 Special Clear hardener. Polyester resin would bond better, epoxy resin is a little stronger. I used 207 Special Clear hardener because that's what I used for Zip's clear sealant coat. The 205 Fast hardener or 206 Slow hardener would work as well, but may have an amber tint. Buy cheap brushes and wipe up runs to reduce later sanding.
Chine patch drying.
Sanded the chine patch and added a layer of Marine Tex to fill the gaps.
Filed down the excess epoxy around the daggerboard trunk with a 4 in 1 file, then test fit a daggerboard.
Sanded the cockpit keel patch.
Filled gaps on the keel and hull patches with Marine Tex.
Dec 2013: First coat of Pettit EZ Prime rolled and tipped. It went on great and covered a lot!
Testing Pettit EZ Fair epoxy fairing compound. I really like how it dispenses in equal amounts from a caulk gun, mixes easily, spreads like peanut butter and the tube can be resealed.
I faired all of the patched areas and as many of the pinholes as I could find.
Second coat of primer. Used an Ace trim brush and 3/16 inch nap roller, worked very smooth. Also won a Pettit sweatshirt in a facebook contest.
Need to hit a few more areas with EZ Fair, sand and then we'll be ready for paint on the hull!
12 Jan 2014: Float test for Merci, she did great, no leaks!
She liked being ON the water vs being filled with it.
That takes care of the hull and foam block repair. For the rest of the story check out Sunfish Pickin Pensacola Merci
Merci back on the water:
Bonjour!
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
Started cutting holes for blind patches in bow, keel forward of daggerboard and keel under the cockpit, using a rotozip. Make sure the bit is set shallow so it does not cut into cockpit tub.
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
Found a lot of dirt in the hull, used to be mud.
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
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| From Small Boat Restoration |
Also found port bow flotation block is loose, tried to push it back into place from theis cutout but the old foam is in the way. Merci must have taken quite a tumble in one of the hurricanes to dislodge that block. This changes our plan for blind patches, as now we need to split the hull in order to remove the old 2 part expanding foam and reset the block.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration |
Here is about 5 pounds of dirt that we have vacuumed out of the hull so far.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
There are several experiments going on here.
1) I did some light sanding on the chine and sprayed it with blue rustoleum, to see if the paint would cover any of the scrapes. Answer is no. But now when I sand I will know I am getting to good base materials, through all of the chips, scrapes and gouges when all of the blue spray paint disappears.
2) Same idea with the red Interlux Brightside, how much would it cover? Not Much.
3) the white area is epoxy putty, would it fill in the gouges and smooth out the crunchy spots? Nope.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
I sanded a test area with a random orbital sander and 80 grit pads, lots of them, from the port bow back about 6 feet. By watching where the red paint was disappearing from the valleys while sanding, it was easy to see where I needed to sand more. I left 2 hand size areas partially sanded, then rolled/tipped the area with Interlux Brightside Bluglo White. The fully sanded areas came out looking great, the partially sanded areas will need to be completely sanded down through most of the gelcoat. The great news is that the crunchy areas do not go into the fiberglass and epoxy and will not need to be faired! We will be able to see some dips in the gelcoat but the surface will be smooth.
I'll get a better picture, in this one the newly sanded area is so smooth and shiny that it picked up the reflection of the pine tree overhead. I'll also get some picture of how the sanding progressed, down through the red paint and gelcoat to the fiberglass and epoxy.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Built a work cradle that will support boat hull side up and deck side up, with removable bunks, it also has rollers and the sawhorses will come out if I want.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Split the deck/hull seam to get inside for hull repairs. For more information on splitting a deck,see the post on Foam Repair.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Here are the areas to be repaired from inside. As it turns out all of the backer blocks are decayed, completely gone and will need to be replaced, so having the hull split will make that easy. The fiberglass hangar stuck to the deck is for the halyard cleat backer block. The pegs sticking through the hull in the background are the securing rivet nuts (rivnuts) for the coaming. The backer block hanger for the bow handle is broken and needs to be repaired. The hanger for the halyard block backer block is gone also.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
INTERMISSION
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
This piece needed to be cutout, that is crushed and punctured fiberglass where the epoxy is clouded. It needs to be replaced.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Cutting out a fiberglass cloth patch for the inside. Make it bigger than the repair area and cut out 4-5 layers. We only did one at first and it was not stiff enough.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
I cut out the damaged area and taped this keel section back in place.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Epoxied the backer patch into place, 4-5 layers would be optimum. I was able to reach the area with a long handles brush, but needed to tape a stick to the mixing cup in order to get the epoxy poured.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Cut out a backer patch for the bow repair.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Made a backer patch for the keel repair under the cockpit. I used the cut out piece as a form, wax paper so I can remove the backer and slide it inside the hull.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Used cardboard and string to pull the backer patch tight inside the hull. Epoxied everything into place, tied it up with paint sticks while it dried.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Keel patch is drying, it will need fiberglass cloth added where damaged areas are cut out. Completed first sanding to see what areas need to be built up some more.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Added five layers of fiberglass to build up the bow repair, then sanded.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
31 Oct 2013: Added 3 additional layers of fiberglass inside for the keel patch just ahead of daggerboard trunk.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
To reach this area I needed a paint stick to position the cloth, a cup on a stick to pour the epoxy resin and a long handled brush to embed the resin.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
I used one of the foam blocks to prop open the deck.
 |
| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Also put 4 layers of cloth under the bow handle hole...
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
Then 4 layers in the hole and sanded. Test fit the bow handle.
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| From SBR 2013 |
...and then let Merci get a little sun.
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| From Small Boat Restoration 2013 |
While the deck was open we replaced the backer blocks for the bow handle, halyard cleat and halyard block. The old blocks were rotted away. This backer blocks are held in place by adhesive and a fiberglass strip.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
I cut new backer blocks out of rot resistant cypress.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
Secured new backer blocks with 3M 5200 Marine adhesive sealant.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
Found one bridle eyestrap backer block in the hull, so those will be replaced also.
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| From SBR 2013 |
Finished the foam reset and epoxied the deck and hull back together. See Foam Repair for more pictures.
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| From SBR 2013 |
The bridle eyestrap used to go here, in fact the old one is there in the bottom right of the picture.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Went throught the inspection port on the stern and tunneled through the foam to install new bridle eyestrap backer blocks, held them in place with screws while they dry.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
Finished sanding the deck with 80 grit.
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| From SBR 2013 |
Flipped the boat and removed 2 coats of old blue paint and gouges in the gelcoat, had to sand through the gelcoat in a few areas.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Finished the port hull!
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| From SBR 2013 |
Finished the starboard hull.
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| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
Reattached the keel section with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
After epoxy dried, troweled on first layer of marine epoxy putty.
|
| From SBR 2013 |
Made a blind patch with cardboard, 3 layers of fiberglass cloth and a coat hanger.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Epoxied the blind patch into the hull, pulled it tight with the coat hanger.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Added 4 layers of 6 oz fiberglass cloth, bonded with West System 105 Epoxy resin and 207 Special Clear hardener. Polyester resin would bond better, epoxy resin is a little stronger. I used 207 Special Clear hardener because that's what I used for Zip's clear sealant coat. The 205 Fast hardener or 206 Slow hardener would work as well, but may have an amber tint. Buy cheap brushes and wipe up runs to reduce later sanding.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Chine patch drying.
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| From SBR 2013 |
Sanded the chine patch and added a layer of Marine Tex to fill the gaps.
 |
| From SBR 2013 |
Filed down the excess epoxy around the daggerboard trunk with a 4 in 1 file, then test fit a daggerboard.
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| From SBR 2013 |
Sanded the cockpit keel patch.
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| From SBR 2013 |
Filled gaps on the keel and hull patches with Marine Tex.
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| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 2013 |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
Dec 2013: First coat of Pettit EZ Prime rolled and tipped. It went on great and covered a lot!
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
Testing Pettit EZ Fair epoxy fairing compound. I really like how it dispenses in equal amounts from a caulk gun, mixes easily, spreads like peanut butter and the tube can be resealed.
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
I faired all of the patched areas and as many of the pinholes as I could find.
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
Second coat of primer. Used an Ace trim brush and 3/16 inch nap roller, worked very smooth. Also won a Pettit sweatshirt in a facebook contest.
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
Need to hit a few more areas with EZ Fair, sand and then we'll be ready for paint on the hull!
12 Jan 2014: Float test for Merci, she did great, no leaks!
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014- |
She liked being ON the water vs being filled with it.
That takes care of the hull and foam block repair. For the rest of the story check out Sunfish Pickin Pensacola Merci
Merci back on the water:
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014 - Jun 2014 |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014 - Jun 2014 |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014 - Jun 2014 |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014 - Jun 2014 |
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| From SBR 3: Jan 2014 - Jun 2014 |
Bonjour!
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