Step by step how to make floorboards. First step, buy a boat with floorboards...
Here is our 1980 Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE guarding the cypress boards stored below her, we set those boards aside about 4 years ago for her starboard side floorboard. We bought enough boards to make both sides at once but only made the port side. Surprisingly the lumber is still there.
We made a new port side floorboard for the Drascombe Lugger about 4 years ago after someone whose name rhymes with Scott destroyed an aft plank. Actually Capn Scott was kind enough to point out a weak spot in the slowly rotting pine. The new floor was made from cypress.
We use 1x6 planks, which measure out to 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches. We bought 10 feet long boards with the excess being used to make the half planks and cross cleats. Lay them out UPSIDE DOWN and lay the old floor on top to trace the outside edge. We do it like this because later we have to screw on the cleats. We put a fingertip size gap between the boards to allow for air circulation, we wnat any water to flow easily into the bilge and not get trapped against the boards somewhere. The gap also provides a spot to hold, to ease handling during installation and removal.
If you want to lay the planks in the boat to set your plank spacing, draw some perpendicular lines to help line them back up in the boat. Do this BEFORE you pick the planks up to cut them. The planks are upside down so you can work on them, so they will need to be placed on the opposite side of the bilge. We recommend leaving a finger tip size gap around the outer edge of the floorboard, by the side seats, so that the floorboard and cleats will not interfere with where the fiberglass hull liner is bonded to the hull. With that small gap he boards fit loosely but do not slide around. If you want the boards to fit amazingly tight, then you are on your own :)
We use a DeWALT jigsaw to cut the plank edge.
Hold on to the offcuts to make the half planks and cleats. 3 main planks cut out but we still need to cut the little half planks that go ahead of and behind the centreplate* case. *So British, we call it the centrplate a centerboard her in the U.S. of A.
It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...
Measured the cleats to find width. This 1985ish floorboard was made old school by Capn Jack, he nailed them together. Several nails came in from the top and were clenched (bent over) to hold the shape. Then he flipped the floorboard and put smaller nails in from below, long enough to go through the cleat but not poke through the top of the floorboard, so they probably measured around 1 1/4 inch.
Set to table saw to 1 3/4 inches for the cleats.
Cut the cleats and small center planks from the offcuts. Use the smaller pieces first to optimize wood usage.
Transfer cleat length and angles to new cleat and also make note any bevels on the outer edges. Those are there to help get a snug fit for the floor, but not too tight.
Cut cleat angle ends and note bevels.
All cleats cut. Note the large bevels cut on the lower outer edges of the aft cleats. The hull tucks up and in there so a little extra clearance is needed.
Trace the half planks.
The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case.
The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case. Use the half planks to mark where the bevel starts.
Cut the centreplate case clearance bevel with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a DeWALT compact trim router. Only a DeWALT will work...don't try any others...#DeWALT
Centreplate clearance chamfer cut, that helps ease installing and removing the floorboard, no binding.
Ease the edges of the planks with a 1/8th inch roundover bit on a DeWalt compact trim router. Only DeWalt will work...
Coffee time.
We like a finger width gap for air circulation and ease of grabbling the floorboard when taking it in and out.
Drill a pilot hole and countersink with a Fuller combination bit. Attach the cleats with #10 1 1/4 inch silicone bronze screws, Frearson bit.
Here is the screw pattern that we like.
Assembly finito!
Mark finger hole location.
Drill a 1 inch finger hole. Or 1 1//8th inch if you don't have a 1 inch bit. Put a scrap piece of wood underneath to minimize blowout caused by the spade bit.
We sanded with 60 grit so we have a rough surface for traction. We left the sanding dust on there as well for grit. Applied one coat of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish to act as a sealer against grime. Flip the boards over and varnish the bottom, let dry and go sail/row/motor. For maintenance we may switch to teak oil. #totalboat.
It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...
11 Jan 17:
Finito!
Log of ONKAHYE
Dabber and Lugger Floorboards.
