First coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White brushed with a Redtree Fooler chip brush.
Log of VICTORY.
Showing posts with label dabber. Show all posts
Showing posts with label dabber. Show all posts
Friday, April 6, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 06 Apr 18 Oar Paint Rust-Oleum Marine Oyster White
06 Apr 18:
First coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White brushed with a Redtree Fooler chip brush.
Log of VICTORY.
First coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White brushed with a Redtree Fooler chip brush.
Log of VICTORY.
Thursday, April 5, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 05 Apr 18 Third Coat Pettit Easypoxy and Oar Repair
05 Apr 18:
Lightly sanded some runs and sags with 220 grit discs on a random orbital sander then rolled and tipped the third coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Used Mighty Mini rollers and roller kit from Jamestown Distributors, tipped with a Blue Hawk 2 inch sash brush. Thinned the paint with about 5% Pettit Brushing Thinner, outside air temp 70F.
We had scarfed a new handle cut from cypress onto one of the oars and needed to shape it. I sanded it at first with 40 grit on a belt sander, but that was taking a while and making a lot of dust, so I switched to a Stanley spokeshave and that rapidly took off the excess. I cut the shoulder for the grip with a shinto rasp and shaped it with a tile diamond file. Then I finished sanding the grip to shape with 60 grit discs on a DeWALT random orbital sander.
Once the grip was shaped I sanded both oars with 60 grit on a random orbital sander. There was a lot of excess epoxy and plastic wrap residue on the blades, left over from when we had glued the blades back together last year. It took a lot of sanding but I got everything smooth and ready for paint.
Log of VICTORY.
Lightly sanded some runs and sags with 220 grit discs on a random orbital sander then rolled and tipped the third coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Used Mighty Mini rollers and roller kit from Jamestown Distributors, tipped with a Blue Hawk 2 inch sash brush. Thinned the paint with about 5% Pettit Brushing Thinner, outside air temp 70F.
We had scarfed a new handle cut from cypress onto one of the oars and needed to shape it. I sanded it at first with 40 grit on a belt sander, but that was taking a while and making a lot of dust, so I switched to a Stanley spokeshave and that rapidly took off the excess. I cut the shoulder for the grip with a shinto rasp and shaped it with a tile diamond file. Then I finished sanding the grip to shape with 60 grit discs on a DeWALT random orbital sander.
Once the grip was shaped I sanded both oars with 60 grit on a random orbital sander. There was a lot of excess epoxy and plastic wrap residue on the blades, left over from when we had glued the blades back together last year. It took a lot of sanding but I got everything smooth and ready for paint.
Log of VICTORY.
Saturday, March 24, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 24 Mar 18 Pettit Easypoxy Second Coat
24 Mar 18:
Sanded out a few runs with 120 grit on a random orbital sander.
Rolled and tipped second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Sanded out a few runs with 120 grit on a random orbital sander.
Rolled and tipped second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Friday, March 23, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 23 Mar 18 Pettit EasyPoxy Roll and Tip
23 Mar 18:
Rolled and tipped the first coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Mighty Mini rollers and a Redtree double thick Fooler brush. Thinned the paint 5% with Pettit Brushing thinner.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Rolled and tipped the first coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Mighty Mini rollers and a Redtree double thick Fooler brush. Thinned the paint 5% with Pettit Brushing thinner.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Wednesday, March 21, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 21 Mar 18 Sand and Prime
21 Mar 18:
Sanded the planks on the 1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY with 60 grit on a random orbital sander to get rid of loose paint. Applied first coat of Pettit EZPrime, thinned 5% with 120 Brushing Thinner. I rolled with Mighty Mini foam rollers and Skipper tipped with a 2 inch short handled sash brush. Also prepped an anchor and secured a dime to go at the base of the mast.
From right to left there is the original gelcoat, old sanded paint and new primer.
WINNIE and ZIP supervised VICTORY's first coat of Pettit EZPrime. One more coat of primer and then we will finish painting the hull with Easypoxy 3213 Blue Ice, like seen on the bottom plank.
All the supplies available through Jamestown Distributors.
VICTORY's anchor, chain and line.
Dime to go under the base of the mast. Sailors and shipwrights have been putting coins under masts of ships for several thousand years, and still do today. They’ve been found in the mast steps of ancient Roman shipwrecks, even recently. The hope, still, is the offering will bring good luck and safe passage.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Sanded the planks on the 1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY with 60 grit on a random orbital sander to get rid of loose paint. Applied first coat of Pettit EZPrime, thinned 5% with 120 Brushing Thinner. I rolled with Mighty Mini foam rollers and Skipper tipped with a 2 inch short handled sash brush. Also prepped an anchor and secured a dime to go at the base of the mast.
From right to left there is the original gelcoat, old sanded paint and new primer.
WINNIE and ZIP supervised VICTORY's first coat of Pettit EZPrime. One more coat of primer and then we will finish painting the hull with Easypoxy 3213 Blue Ice, like seen on the bottom plank.
All the supplies available through Jamestown Distributors.
VICTORY's anchor, chain and line.
Dime to go under the base of the mast. Sailors and shipwrights have been putting coins under masts of ships for several thousand years, and still do today. They’ve been found in the mast steps of ancient Roman shipwrecks, even recently. The hope, still, is the offering will bring good luck and safe passage.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Sunday, January 21, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 21 Jan 18 Trailer Sailing
21 Jan 18:
We have a lot of new parts on the Dabber, so we thought we'd take them over to Capn Jack so he could inspect them. I planned to grab the bumpkin and bowsprit and Skipper said "Why don't we take the whole boat!." Hooked VICTORY up to BLUEBELL and headed across the bridge.
We rigged the boat minus the bumpkin, worked on that later. I've been told that the gaff halyard and jib halyard run through the holes in the mast thwart, so here that is.
Skipper and Capn Jack supervised.
Tied things down, this is how we'd hit the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt7CKOzhxG0&t=7s
VICTORY passed mid restoration inspection and we were cleared to continue. Once we were home we cut the opening for the mizzen mast. I leveleled the boat port to starboard, then started a small cut but cut too far forward and to starboard. I ended up cutting a shim out of teak to finish out the hole. Epoxied the shim into place using Pettit Flexpoxy.
Restoration Log for VICTORY.
We have a lot of new parts on the Dabber, so we thought we'd take them over to Capn Jack so he could inspect them. I planned to grab the bumpkin and bowsprit and Skipper said "Why don't we take the whole boat!." Hooked VICTORY up to BLUEBELL and headed across the bridge.
We rigged the boat minus the bumpkin, worked on that later. I've been told that the gaff halyard and jib halyard run through the holes in the mast thwart, so here that is.
Skipper and Capn Jack supervised.
Tied things down, this is how we'd hit the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt7CKOzhxG0&t=7s
VICTORY passed mid restoration inspection and we were cleared to continue. Once we were home we cut the opening for the mizzen mast. I leveleled the boat port to starboard, then started a small cut but cut too far forward and to starboard. I ended up cutting a shim out of teak to finish out the hole. Epoxied the shim into place using Pettit Flexpoxy.
Restoration Log for VICTORY.
Thursday, January 18, 2018
Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 18 Jan 18 Centreplate Installation
18 Jan 18:
A few weeks back we reinstalled the centreplate in our Drascombe Dabber VICTORY. It is galvanized and weighs 55 pounds, and it can be removed without taking off the centreplate cap or removing the pivot pin.
Link to Restoration Log for VICTORY.
A few weeks back we reinstalled the centreplate in our Drascombe Dabber VICTORY. It is galvanized and weighs 55 pounds, and it can be removed without taking off the centreplate cap or removing the pivot pin.
Link to Restoration Log for VICTORY.
Saturday, December 2, 2017
Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 02 Dec 17 Trailer, Paint and Outboard Mount
02 Dec 17:
Tongue was a little bent! Eddie English and crew got the trailer road ready again, added 6 inches to the new tongue, put on new 2 inch coupler with safety chains, bow stop with winch, bow roller, tilt latch and bolt, axle, springs, u bolts, Posi-lube hubs, new bunks with brackets and carpet, and wigher weight capacity 5.70 x 8 inch tires. All hot dipped galvanized or stainless, basically a new trailer for several hundre less than the cost of new. Eddie's crew also got the new lights that I put on working, I learned that tilt trailers sometimes need a jumper ground wire to best ground the tongue to the main frame. Otherwise the ground tries to go through the rusty tilt bolt.
Sanded the keel rub strip with 60 grit on the belt sander then 120 on the random orbital sander.
Second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice rolled and tipped. I rolled with a Might Mini foam roller and frame from Jamestown Distributors, they sell a nice foam roller kit that includes the 4" roller frame, solvent-resistant plastic tray, two 4" Mighty Mini foam covers, and disposable gloves for $4.77 USD. The Skipper is an awesome painter and she tipped with a 2 inch chip brush, did a great job. the air temperature was 74F, we thinned the paint 5 percent with brushing thinner because the roller was dragging a bit. For thinner, it is best to use the manufacturer's recommended thinner.
Took out the rotted outboard mount.
Two of the nuts on the back of the outboard recess that hold the bolts on the starboard side were easy to reach through the cuddy, they came off easy with a wrench holding the nut. The nuts on the port side are inaccessible and we kept out fingers crossed removing them, because if the backer nuts fall off then an inspection port might be needed to refasten the mount. The bolt on the top was frozen and it snapped, the bolt on the bottom came out easily and the nut stayed in position, yay. We had read about the port side nuts, so we were prepared. One part of the article mentioned that some Dabbers had 2 port side nuts, some only had one, so we will go with one port side nut for the new mount pad. If we notice any movement we'll look at different options to add another fastener.
We cut a new outboard mount from cumaru. The old mount was 1 1/4 inches thick, we didn't have teak that thick so I planed a 3/4 inch thick piece down to 1/2 inch on the DeWALT compact planer and fastened the two pieces together with silicone bronze screws. Used the old mount to get the port side bolt location, but the starboard side of the old mount was too rotten to use as a pattern, So we put the starboard side bolts in position with a dab of paint on each head, lined up the port side bolt and pressed the backside of the mount against the bolt heads. That left a paint mark on the back of the mount and we drilled the bolt holes using the paint as a reference. We went up one drill size for the bolt holes to allow for alignment slop.
The new mount pad is trimmed a bit on the lower aft corners to fit the rounded bottom of the outboard well, we used a belt sander for that with a 60 grit belt. Then the pad was fastened with marine stainless bolts, washers and stop nuts.
The centreplate!
Log of VICTORY.
Tongue was a little bent! Eddie English and crew got the trailer road ready again, added 6 inches to the new tongue, put on new 2 inch coupler with safety chains, bow stop with winch, bow roller, tilt latch and bolt, axle, springs, u bolts, Posi-lube hubs, new bunks with brackets and carpet, and wigher weight capacity 5.70 x 8 inch tires. All hot dipped galvanized or stainless, basically a new trailer for several hundre less than the cost of new. Eddie's crew also got the new lights that I put on working, I learned that tilt trailers sometimes need a jumper ground wire to best ground the tongue to the main frame. Otherwise the ground tries to go through the rusty tilt bolt.
Sanded the keel rub strip with 60 grit on the belt sander then 120 on the random orbital sander.
Second coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice rolled and tipped. I rolled with a Might Mini foam roller and frame from Jamestown Distributors, they sell a nice foam roller kit that includes the 4" roller frame, solvent-resistant plastic tray, two 4" Mighty Mini foam covers, and disposable gloves for $4.77 USD. The Skipper is an awesome painter and she tipped with a 2 inch chip brush, did a great job. the air temperature was 74F, we thinned the paint 5 percent with brushing thinner because the roller was dragging a bit. For thinner, it is best to use the manufacturer's recommended thinner.
Took out the rotted outboard mount.
Two of the nuts on the back of the outboard recess that hold the bolts on the starboard side were easy to reach through the cuddy, they came off easy with a wrench holding the nut. The nuts on the port side are inaccessible and we kept out fingers crossed removing them, because if the backer nuts fall off then an inspection port might be needed to refasten the mount. The bolt on the top was frozen and it snapped, the bolt on the bottom came out easily and the nut stayed in position, yay. We had read about the port side nuts, so we were prepared. One part of the article mentioned that some Dabbers had 2 port side nuts, some only had one, so we will go with one port side nut for the new mount pad. If we notice any movement we'll look at different options to add another fastener.
We cut a new outboard mount from cumaru. The old mount was 1 1/4 inches thick, we didn't have teak that thick so I planed a 3/4 inch thick piece down to 1/2 inch on the DeWALT compact planer and fastened the two pieces together with silicone bronze screws. Used the old mount to get the port side bolt location, but the starboard side of the old mount was too rotten to use as a pattern, So we put the starboard side bolts in position with a dab of paint on each head, lined up the port side bolt and pressed the backside of the mount against the bolt heads. That left a paint mark on the back of the mount and we drilled the bolt holes using the paint as a reference. We went up one drill size for the bolt holes to allow for alignment slop.
The new mount pad is trimmed a bit on the lower aft corners to fit the rounded bottom of the outboard well, we used a belt sander for that with a 60 grit belt. Then the pad was fastened with marine stainless bolts, washers and stop nuts.
The centreplate!
Log of VICTORY.
Friday, December 1, 2017
Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 01 DEC 17 Paint, Gelcoat Cleaning
01 Dec 17:
Rolled and tipped the first coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice on the garboard.
Painted the bilge. Skipper started removing more grime with Tilex, it worked great. She got the port side cleaned up.
Removed rotten section of the keel rub strip, about 12 inches.
Cut new section from teak and fastened with TotalBoat THIXO.
Log of VICTORY.
Rolled and tipped the first coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice on the garboard.
Painted the bilge. Skipper started removing more grime with Tilex, it worked great. She got the port side cleaned up.
Removed rotten section of the keel rub strip, about 12 inches.
Cut new section from teak and fastened with TotalBoat THIXO.
Log of VICTORY.
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