Rigged the boat to show what gear is on board and other notes about when we launch. But first we addressed a common problem, sometimes the stay swage eyes get flipped over the tang on the mast eye and we don't notice it until the mast is up. Then the mast comes back down.
We are going to try a 3mm keeper line to keep the swage eyes in the right spot.
First up is a glamor shot video without sailing gear, and sails set to point out a few things. We always check the sails on the trailer to ensure they deploy correctly when we leave the dock.
A roller furling jib comes in handy to get to and from the ramp.
Next up a video showing where the gear is stowed and sails ready for slipping off the trailer at the ramp.
Our Suzuki 6 outboard (kind of) needed to be shimmed so that it could be tilted all the way to the top latch notch. We added a shim under the top aft of the mount feet to tilt the mount back about 3/8th inch. We also added a 1/8th inch wear pad under the aft mount feet and another wear strip under the lock screws.
We got asked to shoot a few pictures for a web article, so we prepped to go out to the local ramp for some sand dune glamor shots. But the last time we took ONKAHYE out there was a small leak around the drain plug housing, I thought I'd check that first. Might be time for new sealant.
Hull opening for drain plug housing. 2 of the screws were so corroded that they sheared when I tried to loosen them. 1980 boat, not sure of the vintage of the screws.
9/64th pilot hole for the #8 x 3/4 inch silicone bronze screws, we used the old holes to determine the bit size.
Filled old drain plug housing screw holes with Pettit Marine Paint Flexpoxy.
Sealant for the drain plug housing.
We installed the housing and rotated it so the screw holes would not be over the old screw holes in the hull. Drilled new pilot holes for a 3/4 inch screw, don't go too far or the bit will go out the bottom of the hull. Drain plug housing installed with #8 silicone bronze screws, 3/4 inch long. Drain plug reinstalled.
We made it out to the ramp for photos but it was cold, windy and foggy. Lots of chop at the dock as well, we get some washboard stuff going here in the sound when the wind is wrong. Since we planned on Skipper singlehanding the boat for a bit and she is the Dock Commander, we decided to wave off after taking a few pictures of the boat in road ready mode.
Back to the casa with free time now, we decided to put a coat of 3M FIberglass Restorer and Wax on the hull, it has a mild rubbing compound and provides UV protection.
The wax is pretty easy to work with, I wiped most of it off with an old towen and then buffed it with a cheapo 6 inch car buffer from WalMart.
How's this for old school, this bronze beauty has been in the family for 3 generations.
Bumpkin needs a varnish touchup, before.
During, sanded with 120 grit
Applied TotalBoat Gleam Marine Varnish Satin with a chip brush, 2 coats.
The parrel beads on the main and gaff jaw were in sad shape, so we enlarged the holes in some new beads, put on a coat of varnish and worked them onto the parrel line.
The original oars in our Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE had been overhauled by Capn Jack over 25 years ago, they had split grainwise along the blades. He glued them back together and added a metal strap around the tips, partly to hold them together and partly as an abrasion guard. He put on a nice coat of white paint with red and black at the tips, he may have been confused from hi airplane propeller painting days. They held up well with light usage. Fast forward to 2018 and we needed to spruce them up (No pun intended) for a photo shoot. One of the tips had a chunk missing, so we cut a piece of cypress to rough size and glued it into place with epoxy. We left the chunk fat on the sides so we could shape it after the epoxy dried.
I had bought some TotalBoat THIXO Low Viscosity thickened epoxy to try, I thought it would pump and mix easier out of the mixing tip. Pump easy it did, and as advertised the viscosity was low. Most of the epoxy ran right out of the oar tip onto our deck. I wanted thickened epoxy to fill a void in the tip and to provide a nice protective surface for the tip, plus act as a surface to fair. What I did at that point was dispense the epoxy into a cup and mixed collodial silica with it to thicken it to my desired peanut butter consistency, Not all was lost form the first round of epoxy, all the surfaces were wet and the thickened batch set well. I got the new cypress tip positioned and smoothed the ends with a coat of epoxy in prep for fairing While the epoxy was drying we sanded the looms with 120 grit, just knocked off the big chunks.
Tips ready for the 60 grit belt sander and 120 grit random orbital sander.
Shaped the tips then applied 2 coats of Rustoleum Marine Topside Oyster White and Bright Red. Tips were still tacky so the black had to wait. Our Lowes sells the Rustoleum and so does Jamestown Distributors.
Step by step how to make floorboards. First step, buy a boat with floorboards...
Here is our 1980 Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE guarding the cypress boards stored below her, we set those boards aside about 4 years ago for her starboard side floorboard. We bought enough boards to make both sides at once but only made the port side. Surprisingly the lumber is still there.
We made a new port side floorboard for the Drascombe Lugger about 4 years ago after someone whose name rhymes with Scott destroyed an aft plank. Actually Capn Scott was kind enough to point out a weak spot in the slowly rotting pine. The new floor was made from cypress.
We use 1x6 planks, which measure out to 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches. We bought 10 feet long boards with the excess being used to make the half planks and cross cleats. Lay them out UPSIDE DOWN and lay the old floor on top to trace the outside edge. We do it like this because later we have to screw on the cleats. We put a fingertip size gap between the boards to allow for air circulation, we wnat any water to flow easily into the bilge and not get trapped against the boards somewhere. The gap also provides a spot to hold, to ease handling during installation and removal.
If you want to lay the planks in the boat to set your plank spacing, draw some perpendicular lines to help line them back up in the boat. Do this BEFORE you pick the planks up to cut them. The planks are upside down so you can work on them, so they will need to be placed on the opposite side of the bilge. We recommend leaving a finger tip size gap around the outer edge of the floorboard, by the side seats, so that the floorboard and cleats will not interfere with where the fiberglass hull liner is bonded to the hull. With that small gap he boards fit loosely but do not slide around. If you want the boards to fit amazingly tight, then you are on your own :)
We use a DeWALT jigsaw to cut the plank edge.
Hold on to the offcuts to make the half planks and cleats. 3 main planks cut out but we still need to cut the little half planks that go ahead of and behind the centreplate* case. *So British, we call it the centrplate a centerboard her in the U.S. of A.
It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...
Measured the cleats to find width. This 1985ish floorboard was made old school by Capn Jack, he nailed them together. Several nails came in from the top and were clenched (bent over) to hold the shape. Then he flipped the floorboard and put smaller nails in from below, long enough to go through the cleat but not poke through the top of the floorboard, so they probably measured around 1 1/4 inch.
Set to table saw to 1 3/4 inches for the cleats.
Cut the cleats and small center planks from the offcuts. Use the smaller pieces first to optimize wood usage.
Transfer cleat length and angles to new cleat and also make note any bevels on the outer edges. Those are there to help get a snug fit for the floor, but not too tight.
Cut cleat angle ends and note bevels.
All cleats cut. Note the large bevels cut on the lower outer edges of the aft cleats. The hull tucks up and in there so a little extra clearance is needed.
Trace the half planks.
The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case.
The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case. Use the half planks to mark where the bevel starts.
Cut the centreplate case clearance bevel with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a DeWALT compact trim router. Only a DeWALT will work...don't try any others...#DeWALT
Centreplate clearance chamfer cut, that helps ease installing and removing the floorboard, no binding.
Ease the edges of the planks with a 1/8th inch roundover bit on a DeWalt compact trim router. Only DeWalt will work...
Coffee time.
We like a finger width gap for air circulation and ease of grabbling the floorboard when taking it in and out.
Drill a pilot hole and countersink with a Fuller combination bit. Attach the cleats with #10 1 1/4 inch silicone bronze screws, Frearson bit.
Here is the screw pattern that we like.
Assembly finito!
Mark finger hole location.
Drill a 1 inch finger hole. Or 1 1//8th inch if you don't have a 1 inch bit. Put a scrap piece of wood underneath to minimize blowout caused by the spade bit.
We sanded with 60 grit so we have a rough surface for traction. We left the sanding dust on there as well for grit. Applied one coat of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish to act as a sealer against grime. Flip the boards over and varnish the bottom, let dry and go sail/row/motor. For maintenance we may switch to teak oil. #totalboat.
It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...
