We got an email from a gent wanting to know if we had a pattern for a Drascombe Dabber tiller. As it turns out we did. Fortunately we took time to take a few measurements and trace out paper patterns of the rudder, tiller, oars, centerboard and a few other bits...mast, mizzen mast, bowsprit, bumpkin.
Sometimes we make plywood templates or wood shapes, for the Dabber we took the time to make a centerboard pattern and wood shape for the bowsprit.
Work continued on EXCUSE ME's mast, we drew out the tapers on the base and cut them with our DeWalt cordless planer. The base of the mast is 1 3/8 inches in diameter, so we cound center and measured off either side of that, then used a straight edge to put down a Sharpie line.
The line goes up to the widest point, 2 1/8 inches. Be advised that the plans call for 2 3/8 inches, we missed that on the plans.
When done tapering all four sides, we'll have the 1 3/8 inch square center section.
Skipper designated a new Summer time work area behind the Boat Works, it's shaded most of the day. Long term plans will have us installing a french door on this end of the shed on the right to improve airflow, lighting and tool access. It will also be a bigger door that the front to roll boats in and out. We may or may not put down some stones or brick, but the dirt and grass work for now.
We paused shaping to make some spar supports, which securely held the spar while planing, spokeshaving, etc. Of course I waited until almost being finished with the mast to make these, and they made a huge difference.
With the guidance of the spar gauge marks and support of the spar chocks, we planed down to eight sides, then used a spokeshave to take the spar to 16 sides (+). The random orbital sander with 80 grit pads was used for final shaping.
And voila, a Nutshell Pram mast.
Our cordless tool collection is growing, very handy for making small boat parts.
We cut up some lumberyard 2x4 spruce for spars today, we picked the best boards we could find with as few knots as possible along the edges. We cut the yard to length first with a small circular saw.
Before we cut to width to make the square blank, from which the round spar will be shaped, we marked where the yard taper from middle to end begins. The small knot will be removed as we round the spar. And if it becomes an issue, we'll select another piece and try again. These spars are very small so it won't take long to shape them. One trick folks try is to buy a 2x6 versus a 2x4 in hopes of finding clearer grain to select from.
We found the maximum width of the yard and used the DeWalt portable table saw to make a 4 sided blank to that measurement. With the yard squared we marked the taper on the end.
There is so little taper that we worked the corners off with a spokeshave, then mostly rounded the yard. On a larger piece with more taper, we could use a batten for draw the taper on the sides and shave the excess off with a bandsaw, the shave the adjoining sides, use a spar gauge to 8 side the spar, sand etc...but that would be some very fine cutting on this small of a spar. Old Timers might even leave the mast or boom square and just go sailing, what's a few ounces of weight between friends?
Our Day Sailer II mast has a tabernacle, it makes raising and lowering the mast a lot easier. Ours got bent a few years ago and we recently ordered a replacement from D&R Marine, who specializes in O'Day parts. We'll replace it soon.
The Day Sailer II may also need a mast step installed on the floor of the cuddy.
Installation instructions call for the lower mast section to be pinned to the step, we use a stainless hose clamp with a rubber pad just under the cuddy top to keep the lower half of the mst fixed in place. This keeps the lower mast section from rising while the mast is raised or lowered.
Another good tip is to make a mast crutch to place back at the transom, that will keep the upper mast from resting on the aft lip of the cuddy, possibly damaging the mast or the cuddy.
One more tip, we tape the lower turnbuckle so that the side stay does not get fouled on the hull tang as the mast goes up, otherwise the turnbuckle barrel gets trapped in the tang and the lower turnbuckle screw will bend.
Gathered some measurements of the sail rig from our Alcort Standard Sailfish WINNIE. But first we compared the 65 square foot sail to a Super Sailfish 75 sf sail.
Gaff and boom are 12' 8". Spruce.
Wilcox and Crittenden bronze boom blocks are set at 6' and 10', fastened with integral screws.
Interconnecting hardware.
Boom and gaff are just over 1 1/2" diameter.
Tapered down to 15/16th inch starting 3 inches from the end, with 3/16th inch bee hole 1 inch from the end.
Mast 9' 7". Spruce and T6061 Aluminum. Sheave set at 9' 3 1/2".
Lower 4 feet is aluminum.
Diameter 2 1/4 inches. Taper to top starts at 6', from 2 1/4 inches down to 1 3/4 inches at top.
Built a spar jig so I could turn the mast and shape it with a router. 2x6 box by 20 feet long because we had those boards left over from Barabshela's rescue stretcher. 1x4 cleats on the bottom and ends. Cut the mast profile onto 1x4s and screwed those to the inside of the box. Built a sled for the router. Pinned the mast into the jig with 7/16th inch dowels. Set the 3/8 inch flush bit to the desired depth to get the diameter. Rotated the mast by hand to trim excess wood. Belt sanded with 60 grit, then had sanded with 120 grit.