I spend a lot of time studying how other shops are set up, so we can have a fun space to mess about ashore. Today our electrician came by to wire permanent power to the HEUER GARAGE, a 12x20 shed that sits right next to the 12x20 LEWIS BOAT WORKS. The new electrical will power 3 wall outlets, and overhead quad outlet with a switch that controls the LED shop lights.
These LED lights came from Lowes, we like them because they come have regular plugs, can be turned off at the light if desired. The light bar also has its own outlet to connect other lights, extension cord, etc.
The quad outlet is wired to a motion detector/timer by the door, so when the overhead door or personnel door are first opened, the shop lights come on. We have the timer set for 30 minutes. These sheds can be dark even during daylight without a lot of windows, so it is handy to have the lights come on as we come and go, especially with our hands full of boat bits. There is also a setting to adjust the light level at which the lights will come on.
We have tried having outlets up high in a shop, and down at 16 inches above the floor. The votes are in, the high spot is the winner, as outlets down close to the floor tend to get covered by work benches, flotsam and jetsam, etc... And no bending over to plug things in.
The little Sailfish behind the plywood patterns is on a furniture dolly, as are 3 other dinghies in the shop. It only took minutes to move them outside or away from a wall while the electrician did his thing. Having boats and shop gear on wheels allows the shop to be reconfigured quickly, kind of like a theatre set. That is Skipper's influence, she has her Master's degree in theatre and has directed how the stage will be set.
My obsession with flat decks around the shops pays off when it is time to roll things in and out, like I did with WILLOW today. And with good covers, we could leave her outside for a few days if needed and not worry about leaves, critters, rain...and when it is time to go boating the boat is ready to go. Speaking of ready to go, WILLOW got a dedicated outlet for her battery tender, which is a Pro Mariner HD6 smart charger. We've had a nice fresh battery since upgrading to the HD6 several years ago.
P.S. Our handyman asked if we would have liked a bigger shop vs two small shops, and I had two thoughts. One was that no matter what size shop we had, we would fill it up. So to keep things manageable a mid size shop works. If we had a 24x20 shed, the first thing we'd be doing is hanging a plastic curtain down the middle to try and keep sawdust off of the finished boats, so we are liking a dedicated "storage" shed.
We downrigged CYANE in prep for her homeport change, here's a few photos of what had to happen along the way, mostly for us to reference when we put her back together.
The first thing to do is hook up a tow vehicle, so the trailer will not tip the boat on her stern when working near the transom. Ask me how we learned about this :)
But first, a look at the little pads we made to support an outboard motor, they prevent gouges in the gelcoat and spread the outboard clamp pressure out over a larger area. The pads are 1/4 inch marine grade plywood, attached with double sided tape.
There is no set order to downrigging, we tend to start at one end of the rig (stern) and work forward.
First thing to do is get the mainsail and boom off of the mast. The mainsheet rigging is 2:1 how Capn Jack had it, a block with a becket arrached to the boom and another block attached to a bridle on the transom. We release the mainsheet and usually leave it attached to the becket block.
Next we wandered forward and undid the sail cover so we could get to the various lines.
Here is the cleat for the topping lift. The topping lift helps keep the boom out of the cockpit when the main is down.
Capn Jack put a quick release snap shackle on the forward end of the boom vang.
The downhaul is released.
Mainsheet gets released.
Mainsheet released and tied. The boom now swings free.
The topping lift shackle gets released next. The other lines there are a sail cover tie and the outhaul.
Main halyard gets released. And then it is time to remove the boom and sail.
Time to tackle the main halyard, spinnaker halyard and spare jib halyard (the one we use if we don't rig roller furling jib.) We should label these like Webb does, and add a third cleat. Wow, Skipper's boat sure is dirty, it appears that the opsrey likes sitting on the top of the mast...she needs to get out here and clean this up.
Forward tabernacle pin keeper ring is released.
Furler line gets released and pulled up to the furler.
Side stays loosened.
Furler line tied up.
Remove jib furler pin keeper ring. Go find Skipper, who will control the jib stay while the mast is lowered. If lowering the mast single handed, the jib stay can be released at this time, and line attached to the jib stay that runs through a block attached to the little shackle, and run back to the cockpit. That line can be cleated off over the cuddy until time to release the tabernacle pin.
Here's a video of raising the mast using the line.
Capn Jack made this nice mast crutch.
Time to release the jibstay pin and forward mast tabernacle pin and lower the mast. We had already lowered it partway here, then put the mast back up for glamor shots. Skipper walke the jib back while I lowered the mast.
Next up, we release the upper jib furler drum for long road trips. For short trips we leave the jib attached.
Capn Jack's diddy bag.
Mast is slid forward as far as you like, keeping in mind clearance of the tow vehicle hatch. We wrap old hand towels around the mast at the crutch and over the tabernacle for padding, and cushion the base of the mast where it may contact the tow vehicle hatch. We also tie everything down, including the side stays and pad where needed to prevent metal from rubbing on the deck. The boom tent also works as a storage cover, but we will not trailer with that attached. For long trips we rmove the main from the boom and stow the boom poking out of the cuddy, with the mainsheet tucked into the lazarette. Last thing to do is check the trailer lights, CYANE's trailer is set up with LED lights on the trailer and the trailer guides. More info on those great LED lights upcoming in the Feb 2021 issue of Small Boats Magazine.
Check bearings, tires, safety chains, coupler lock and hit the road. Tires should be less than 6 years old, more info about how to check and why in our Small Boats Magazine article June 2018.
