We rigged WAVE to make sure we had all the parts. We did. Skipper likes the old school daggerboard retainer.
Musings about the swivel cam cleat.
SCOUT approves.
WAVE is back in the Sunfish Shack, next to PHOENIX.
Soon girl.
Log of WAVE.
Showing posts with label swivel cam cleat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label swivel cam cleat. Show all posts
Monday, March 30, 2020
1965 Alcort Sunfish WAVE 30 Mar 20 Rigged for Sail, Washed and Waxed
30 Mar 20:
We rigged WAVE to make sure we had all the parts. We did. Skipper likes the old school daggerboard retainer.
Musings about the swivel cam cleat.
SCOUT approves.
WAVE is back in the Sunfish Shack, next to PHOENIX.
Soon girl.
Log of WAVE.
We rigged WAVE to make sure we had all the parts. We did. Skipper likes the old school daggerboard retainer.
Musings about the swivel cam cleat.
SCOUT approves.
WAVE is back in the Sunfish Shack, next to PHOENIX.
Soon girl.
Log of WAVE.
Thursday, November 9, 2017
1980 AMF Sunfish Viper 09 Nov 17 Final Fitting
09 Nov 17:
Finished up the final bits before sea trials for VIPER. Inspection ports, deck hardware, coaming, gudgeon, bailer.
Cut a larger hole for the aft inspection port with a DeWALT jigsaw, taped the deck first to reduce scratches. The hole is drawn using the port cap, flipping it over and tracing around the outside of it. Don't trace around the outside of the mounting ring, you'll have a really big hole :)
Sealed the port with a bead of TotalBoat Seal. One trick we have is to run a bead of sealant around the port outer ring, put the ring in place and give it a 1/2 turn to spread out the sealant. Drilled holes for the hardware. Secured the ports with #6 stainless steel machine screws, washers and stop nuts. I bought screws that were long enough so I can reach them to put on washers and stop nuts, plus I bought a deep socket that will hold the nut while the screw is tightened. One BIG tip is to buy a couple extra washers and nuts, because they are hard to find if they get dropped inside the hull.
Drilled pilot holes for the bow handle #8 x 1 inch stainless wood screws, oval phillips head.
Drilled piilot holes for the halyard cleat and halyard block, installed with #8 silicone bronze screws long enough to catch the 3/4 inch wooden backer blocks under the deck. It is a good thing to see dry wood shavings come out when the pilot hole is drilled.
Drilled the 3/16th inch pilot holes for the coaming rivets. It is important to buy the proper rivet, aluminum 3/16th inch closed end. They need to be closed end so water will not get into the hull. I also put a small bead of sealant in the rivet hole before installation.
Tapped the edge trim into place with a rubber hammer. Drilled 1/8th inch pilot holes for the edge trim rivets, which do not need to be closed end but they need a grip range of about 1/2 inch. Once again it is easiest to buy the rivets from a Sunfish Dealer. Be careful to only drill through the top of the trim and the deck edge, not all the way through, that is enough to hold on the trim. If the drill goes all the way through, take a file and remove any sharp burrs that are finger slicers. We also go back and file the top of the rivet to make them smooth.
Installed the gudgeon with #10 stainless machine screws. The metal backer plate inside is tapped for the screws, no need for washers and stop nuts. I add a small dab of sealant around each screw hole before installation.
Installed the swivel cam cleat and the sheet hook. The screws for the swivel cam cleat come through under the cockpit lip, they do not go inside the hull.
Added a retaining line to the daggerboard, so it doesn't float away during a capsize. Skipper prefers the simple line over a bungee, it makes it easy for her to pull the board out one handed when beaching. Otherwise she keeps it down most of the time, or if on a run the water pressure holds it where she wants it.
Complete Log for VIPER.
Finished up the final bits before sea trials for VIPER. Inspection ports, deck hardware, coaming, gudgeon, bailer.
Cut a larger hole for the aft inspection port with a DeWALT jigsaw, taped the deck first to reduce scratches. The hole is drawn using the port cap, flipping it over and tracing around the outside of it. Don't trace around the outside of the mounting ring, you'll have a really big hole :)
Sealed the port with a bead of TotalBoat Seal. One trick we have is to run a bead of sealant around the port outer ring, put the ring in place and give it a 1/2 turn to spread out the sealant. Drilled holes for the hardware. Secured the ports with #6 stainless steel machine screws, washers and stop nuts. I bought screws that were long enough so I can reach them to put on washers and stop nuts, plus I bought a deep socket that will hold the nut while the screw is tightened. One BIG tip is to buy a couple extra washers and nuts, because they are hard to find if they get dropped inside the hull.
Drilled pilot holes for the bow handle #8 x 1 inch stainless wood screws, oval phillips head.
Drilled piilot holes for the halyard cleat and halyard block, installed with #8 silicone bronze screws long enough to catch the 3/4 inch wooden backer blocks under the deck. It is a good thing to see dry wood shavings come out when the pilot hole is drilled.
Drilled the 3/16th inch pilot holes for the coaming rivets. It is important to buy the proper rivet, aluminum 3/16th inch closed end. They need to be closed end so water will not get into the hull. I also put a small bead of sealant in the rivet hole before installation.
Tapped the edge trim into place with a rubber hammer. Drilled 1/8th inch pilot holes for the edge trim rivets, which do not need to be closed end but they need a grip range of about 1/2 inch. Once again it is easiest to buy the rivets from a Sunfish Dealer. Be careful to only drill through the top of the trim and the deck edge, not all the way through, that is enough to hold on the trim. If the drill goes all the way through, take a file and remove any sharp burrs that are finger slicers. We also go back and file the top of the rivet to make them smooth.
Installed the gudgeon with #10 stainless machine screws. The metal backer plate inside is tapped for the screws, no need for washers and stop nuts. I add a small dab of sealant around each screw hole before installation.
Installed the swivel cam cleat and the sheet hook. The screws for the swivel cam cleat come through under the cockpit lip, they do not go inside the hull.
Added a retaining line to the daggerboard, so it doesn't float away during a capsize. Skipper prefers the simple line over a bungee, it makes it easy for her to pull the board out one handed when beaching. Otherwise she keeps it down most of the time, or if on a run the water pressure holds it where she wants it.
Complete Log for VIPER.
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Sunfish Sailing
We wanted to test out an older sail and a swivel cam cleat that we installed on Wave. The sail, spars and mast came from a craigslist purchase, sail was made by Pensacola sailmaker Schurr Sails, probably in the mid 80s. Launched from the natural beach, Seitech dolly makes it easy. I push the dolly in far enough to see the boat float, then slide the boat a little further back so dolly can be pulled back onto the beach.
Today the wind was blowing down the shore, so I put the rudder down, jumped in, pushed off, put the daggerboard down about halfway and sheeted in. Mother Nature did the rest.
The sail looks nice with the medium blue deck on Wave. We also are getting used to using our new tiller extension.
Light winds equal great reflection shots.
Got past our sandbar, put the board all the way down. This is the shadow daggerboard and it has more area than the original 1965 board. I could feel a difference adjusting the board in deeper water. The sail set great and has a lot of life left in it.
Wind was light so there wasn't much hiking out :)
Had a great time!
 From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration | |
Today the wind was blowing down the shore, so I put the rudder down, jumped in, pushed off, put the daggerboard down about halfway and sheeted in. Mother Nature did the rest.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
The sail looks nice with the medium blue deck on Wave. We also are getting used to using our new tiller extension.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Light winds equal great reflection shots.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Got past our sandbar, put the board all the way down. This is the shadow daggerboard and it has more area than the original 1965 board. I could feel a difference adjusting the board in deeper water. The sail set great and has a lot of life left in it.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Wind was light so there wasn't much hiking out :)
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Had a great time!
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Swivel Cam Cleat Installation
Upgraded our 1965 boat WAVE with a swivel cam cleat. Measured our 1982 boat to get basic location. The base mounts on the cockpit lip, we are able to reach under the cockpit lip to attach the washers and nylon stop nuts, make sure you leave a little offset from the cockpit bulkhead so the fasteners will fit. DO NOT DRILL INTO THE HULL INTERIOR.
Measure twice, drill once. Or drill a small pilot hole first to see if you are in right spot.
Opened inspection ports to air out the hull. Found this critter inside the by the daggerboard well, the keeper from the old deck drain plug.
Used 8x32 1 inch stainless flat head screws with washers and nylon stop nuts. We buy extra hardware for jobs like this in case we drop something and it disappears. WAVE is ready to roll!
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Measure twice, drill once. Or drill a small pilot hole first to see if you are in right spot.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Opened inspection ports to air out the hull. Found this critter inside the by the daggerboard well, the keeper from the old deck drain plug.
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
Used 8x32 1 inch stainless flat head screws with washers and nylon stop nuts. We buy extra hardware for jobs like this in case we drop something and it disappears. WAVE is ready to roll!
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
 |
| From Sunfish Sailboat Restoration |
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