06 Aug 18:
Here are some pictures on rigging for a Drascombe Dabber, just in case you run across one. Our helpful assistant today is our 1979 Dabber VICTORY.
Easier to rig if boat strap and cover are removed.
Side locker is a good spot for an anchor. The mast steps through the thwart. The lines tied around the mast during transport are the side stays, forestay, jib halyard and main halyard.
We keep the rudder on a towel to protect the deck. Main mast, mizzen mast and gaff are stored off to one side with towels to protect the gelcoat. For long trips it's best to carry the anchor in a tub or in the car. Now is good time to put the rudder up on a seat. And step the mizzen to get it out of the way.
Step the mizzen mast in the transom cap cutout. Actually best to do this first and get it out of the way.
Mizzen mast step.
Dime for the base of the mast, for safe passage and tribute to the wind spirit.
There are 3 stays at the top, the forestay tang at the top of the mast has a block for the jib halyard right below it, that faces towards the bow. Before stepping the mast make sure the stay swages on the top mast band are oriented down, not askew. One hack is to color code the mast band tabs port and starboard, another is to tie the swages with a light piece of line so they don't get crooked on the tabs.
Step the mast by sliding the base through the hole in the mast thwart and make sure the foot of the mast is seated in the keel mast step. Once the mast is up take a look at the swages again to make sure they are not kinked. Side stays go through the U bolt 2-3 times.
Side stays secured with a couple of half hitches. Tie off the forestay at this time.
The line on the right is the main halyard. The parrel beads and line hold the gaff close to the mast. The tan line is the tack for the main.
The other end of the main halyard is tied to the gaff, about 3 grommets up on the sail.
Ready to raise the gaff, we put the gaff on the opposite side of the mast from the halyard, so that the gaff does not drop on our head or cover up the halyard fairlead and belaying pin. Port side pin is for the jib halyard.
Mainsheet rigging.
Bumpkin steps through the starboard side of the transom, pins into a small hole. We like to store the sheet with the spar.
The mizzen sheet runs through a jam cleat on the aft deck.
Mizzen sheet runs from tack of sail, through bumpkin fairlead and forward to another fairlead on the mast, then to the jam cleat.
Mizzen sheet runs from tack of sail, through bumpkin fairlead and forward to another fairlead on the mast, then to the jam cleat. The line on the transom cap is the bridle or traveler for the mainsheet. It also restricts the tiller from being lifted too far up and coming off of the rudder head, as the tiller is just notched on. It is a good idea to add a retaining line to the rudder head or pin the pintle into the gudgeon, if it gets nudged out of the gudgeon it can fall off.
The cutout and pad are part of the outboard motor well, and 2hp is plenty.
Bowsprit slides out through the stem.
Bowsprit notches into the mast thwart.
Jib halyard.
Jib halyard attaches to the head of the jib.
Raise the jib then coil the line, pull a small loop through and throw that loop over the top of the belaying pin.
Jib sheets run outside of all of the stays, through a fairlead and to the cam cleats.
We add a few wraps of line around the jib tack loop, keeps it from slipping. Some boats have a dowel there and others have roller furling.
Oops, main halyard should be reversed so that the line on the forward face of the mast runs down to the fairlead and pin, and the halyard on the aft side of the mast ties to the gaff.
Jib sheet runs outside of the forestay.
Simple overhand knot for the jibsheet to minimize snags on the forestay.
L-R looking aft: Bow line cleat, mainsail halyard, mainsail tack line behind mast and jib halyard.
Bow line.
Good look at mast head, stay tangs, jib halyard block and main halyard sheave.
Mast thwart, halyard belaying pins and tack downhaul. The tack downhaul line has a nice little jam cleat hidden under the thwart.
She's ready to go. Just add water.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Showing posts with label victory. Show all posts
Showing posts with label victory. Show all posts
Monday, August 6, 2018
Thursday, June 28, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 28 Jun 18 Offer To Buy
28 Jun 18:
We have an offer from a nice couple to buy VICTORY, they hope to come hook her up soon and show her a new homeport in North Carolina. Details are being worked out and the plan is for her to take off in early August. We went out and told her the news, she was chillaxing with ST. JACQUES, MADISON, WAVE, PHOENIX and PINKY.
Our plan now is to make her a nice road cover for her trip, so she doesn't go down the road under a tarp or unadorned :)
Log of VICTORY.
We have an offer from a nice couple to buy VICTORY, they hope to come hook her up soon and show her a new homeport in North Carolina. Details are being worked out and the plan is for her to take off in early August. We went out and told her the news, she was chillaxing with ST. JACQUES, MADISON, WAVE, PHOENIX and PINKY.
Our plan now is to make her a nice road cover for her trip, so she doesn't go down the road under a tarp or unadorned :)
Log of VICTORY.
Monday, April 30, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 30 Apr 18 Gunwale Varnish
30 Apr 18:
Cleaned up the rough surface of the gunwale with 120 grit on a random orbital sander a few weeks back. Lesson learned, wear a dust mask, gloves, long sleeve shirt, hat, long pants and decon as soon as possible, I got contaminated with some moldy teak! I thought, oh the breeze is blowing the dust away, I have the shop vac hookped up to the sander and it is a quick job....didn't matter.
Luckily the job went quick, and we applied 2 coats of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish Satin. I wasn't sure how it would look, but after a few brush strokes it looked fantastic, we are very pleased with how it turned out.
We also finished attaching the transom cap with some #8x3/4 silicone bronze wood screws.
All of the sudden VICTORY seems ready for final rigging and sea trials!
Log of VICTORY
Cleaned up the rough surface of the gunwale with 120 grit on a random orbital sander a few weeks back. Lesson learned, wear a dust mask, gloves, long sleeve shirt, hat, long pants and decon as soon as possible, I got contaminated with some moldy teak! I thought, oh the breeze is blowing the dust away, I have the shop vac hookped up to the sander and it is a quick job....didn't matter.
Luckily the job went quick, and we applied 2 coats of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish Satin. I wasn't sure how it would look, but after a few brush strokes it looked fantastic, we are very pleased with how it turned out.
We also finished attaching the transom cap with some #8x3/4 silicone bronze wood screws.
All of the sudden VICTORY seems ready for final rigging and sea trials!
Log of VICTORY
Friday, April 6, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 06 Apr 18 Oar Paint Rust-Oleum Marine Oyster White
06 Apr 18:
First coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White brushed with a Redtree Fooler chip brush.
Log of VICTORY.
First coat of Rust-Oleum Marine Topside Oyster White brushed with a Redtree Fooler chip brush.
Log of VICTORY.
Thursday, April 5, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 05 Apr 18 Third Coat Pettit Easypoxy and Oar Repair
05 Apr 18:
Lightly sanded some runs and sags with 220 grit discs on a random orbital sander then rolled and tipped the third coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Used Mighty Mini rollers and roller kit from Jamestown Distributors, tipped with a Blue Hawk 2 inch sash brush. Thinned the paint with about 5% Pettit Brushing Thinner, outside air temp 70F.
We had scarfed a new handle cut from cypress onto one of the oars and needed to shape it. I sanded it at first with 40 grit on a belt sander, but that was taking a while and making a lot of dust, so I switched to a Stanley spokeshave and that rapidly took off the excess. I cut the shoulder for the grip with a shinto rasp and shaped it with a tile diamond file. Then I finished sanding the grip to shape with 60 grit discs on a DeWALT random orbital sander.
Once the grip was shaped I sanded both oars with 60 grit on a random orbital sander. There was a lot of excess epoxy and plastic wrap residue on the blades, left over from when we had glued the blades back together last year. It took a lot of sanding but I got everything smooth and ready for paint.
Log of VICTORY.
Lightly sanded some runs and sags with 220 grit discs on a random orbital sander then rolled and tipped the third coat of Pettit Easypoxy Blue Ice. Used Mighty Mini rollers and roller kit from Jamestown Distributors, tipped with a Blue Hawk 2 inch sash brush. Thinned the paint with about 5% Pettit Brushing Thinner, outside air temp 70F.
We had scarfed a new handle cut from cypress onto one of the oars and needed to shape it. I sanded it at first with 40 grit on a belt sander, but that was taking a while and making a lot of dust, so I switched to a Stanley spokeshave and that rapidly took off the excess. I cut the shoulder for the grip with a shinto rasp and shaped it with a tile diamond file. Then I finished sanding the grip to shape with 60 grit discs on a DeWALT random orbital sander.
Once the grip was shaped I sanded both oars with 60 grit on a random orbital sander. There was a lot of excess epoxy and plastic wrap residue on the blades, left over from when we had glued the blades back together last year. It took a lot of sanding but I got everything smooth and ready for paint.
Log of VICTORY.
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