21 Apr 20:
1:30 to raise and pin the mast and jib.
Raised the mast on our 1971 O'Day Day Sailer II CYANE, singlehanded, it took 1:30 to get the mast up, pin the tabernacle, get out of the boat and pin the furler at the bow. Rigged the furler jib, boom, topping lift, main, mainsheet, boom vang and sorted the spinnaker lines. Found out that the cockpit cover fits over the boom as well and makes and nice sun shade. One of the design features the George O'Day incorporated was the high boom, so sailors would not have to duck during tacks.
Mast raised. We got it up the first 30 degrees or so with the Armstrong Method then pulled it the rest of the way with a line from the furler, to a bow block and back to the cockpit. Once mast was up we pinned the forward holes in the tabernacle and installed the keeper ring.
Pinned and keeper ringed the furler to the forward hole on the bow tang. We leave the small shackle on the aft hole of the tang to remind us where to connect the mast raising block, but we take the block off. The 1/8th inch Dacron cored in the background is the furler drum line that runs back to the cockpit, and the first fairlead for that is on the foredeck.
Turnbuckles snugged down and stop nuts tightened. Second fairlead for the furler drum on the side deck.
When the jib sheet is pulled the furler drum takes up the furler line.
Furler line routed through side deck fairlead. The little hook is for the spinnaker line (sheet or guy, depending on tack).
White furler line cleats just above the ice box...that's tight, the Day Sailer II has an icebox. Jam cleat on outside of the coaming is for the spinnaker line. Red line is the jib sheet, run through a block on the sliding car.
Jib sheet is then held in teeth, never cleated, lest the Skipper launch into salty sailor talk. Hands kept free to tend to the main sheet. :) Blue line along boom is the main outhaul.
Furler demo.
G&G Sails, Fairhope Abalama.
G&G Sails, Fairhope Abalama, USA. They are at least 20 years old and still look good, Capn Jack stored them under his bed when not in use.
CYANE is Hull Number 4624, 1971 vintage. SHe'll be a Senior Citizen next year. 4624 was one of the first Day Sailer IIs, self bailing and self righting. Positive flotation compartment under the cockpit and cuddy, another flotation compartment in the bow. DS II transoms were thinner, which makes mounting a little kicker easier, we added the wooden pad on the starboard transom to protect it from the outboard bracket and mount screws.
Capn Jack's preferred mainsheet bridle, 2:1 purchase. DS IIs had mid boom sheeting, led to the aft end of the centerboard trunk. Note the nice scuppers along the outer edge of the cockpit seat and along the sides of the cockpit floor.
Mainsheet block below the boom. On top of the boom is the topping lift shackle and we added a micro block for the main outhaul. The topping lift keeps the boom from dropping into the cockpit when the sail is down, and it also keep the boom up while the main is raised, making it easier to get the main all the way up.
Mainsheet swivel cam cleat. Icebox built into port side seat.
Red lines are jib sheets. White line is centerboard uphaul, blue line is the cb downhaul. Inspection port for the flotation compartment are also a DSII feature.
Main halyard on starboard cleat. Spinnaker halyard and spinnaker pole halyard on portside cleat. I think we need one more cleat. Blue line is boom vang.
Our cockpit cover also fits as a basic boom tent.
Cut new 1/8th inch diameter Dacron cord for the cockpit cover, used for storage.
Outfitting next, maybe Yard Sail a spinnaker?
Log of CYANE.
Showing posts with label roller furler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label roller furler. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 21, 2020
Friday, January 19, 2018
1980 Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE 19 Jan 18 Roller Furler Cotter Pin
19 Jan 18:
Our Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE has a roller furling jib, the jibstay is attached to the furler drum with a cotter pin and small cotter ring.
The cotter ring is very small and hard to manipulate, so we'll see if we can undo the shackle at the tack grommet vs the cotter ring. (In breaking news, the Skipper has been wanting to do it that way for years but had other folks going down other rigging paths). The tack shackle is there because the newer jib grommet on the Bartlett sail was a bit oversize to fit directly into the top of the furler drum. If the upper shackle path doesn't work, we are going to try a different size cotter ring or U shackle to see if we can make rigging the jibstay a little easier. All that said, some folks take the entire furler drum assembly loose when the boat is downrigged so that the furler is not left on the stem, to reduce UV damage or potential for sticky fingers. We don't because we store the boat in the garage and it is one less step to rig the furler line.
Here are some candidates for replacement parts. This also denotes the part size if anyone needs to order a replacement, 3/16th inch diameter by 3/4 inches long barrel.
We'll report the results! (Edit: The results are in. The U shackle was not a good idea, there was one more part to keep track of and it was hard to thread the pin through the shackle, then the furler tang, then the jibstay shackle, then the furler tang again and finally into the U shackle. So we'll scrap that and go back to the cotter pin, but add a bigger cotter ring, and next time try undoing the shackle on the end of the jibstay).
Log of ONKAHYE.
Our Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE has a roller furling jib, the jibstay is attached to the furler drum with a cotter pin and small cotter ring.
The cotter ring is very small and hard to manipulate, so we'll see if we can undo the shackle at the tack grommet vs the cotter ring. (In breaking news, the Skipper has been wanting to do it that way for years but had other folks going down other rigging paths). The tack shackle is there because the newer jib grommet on the Bartlett sail was a bit oversize to fit directly into the top of the furler drum. If the upper shackle path doesn't work, we are going to try a different size cotter ring or U shackle to see if we can make rigging the jibstay a little easier. All that said, some folks take the entire furler drum assembly loose when the boat is downrigged so that the furler is not left on the stem, to reduce UV damage or potential for sticky fingers. We don't because we store the boat in the garage and it is one less step to rig the furler line.
Here are some candidates for replacement parts. This also denotes the part size if anyone needs to order a replacement, 3/16th inch diameter by 3/4 inches long barrel.
We'll report the results! (Edit: The results are in. The U shackle was not a good idea, there was one more part to keep track of and it was hard to thread the pin through the shackle, then the furler tang, then the jibstay shackle, then the furler tang again and finally into the U shackle. So we'll scrap that and go back to the cotter pin, but add a bigger cotter ring, and next time try undoing the shackle on the end of the jibstay).
Log of ONKAHYE.
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