1963 Alcort Sunfish CHIP 10 Apr 19 Scarfs and Keel Strips

10 Apr 19:

Worked on the bottom panels and keel strip for CHIP. For an 8:1 scarf on 1/4 inch plywood mark a 2 inch scarf line (8 x .25 = 2). The end of the panel is then planed to a slope, with a feather edge on the end up to full thickness at the 2 inch line. And since we want this stern panel scarf to fit underneath the bow panel scarf, we cut the scarf on the top face of the panel as we look at it. For the bow panel, we cut the scarf on the underside face.

120 grit belt on a Black and Decker belt sander a Stanley #5 jack plane to cut the scarfs into the 4 bottom panels. We lined them up on the 2 inch marks and cut the slope, looking for the ply glue lines as we shaved wood away. The goal is to get them as evenly spaced as possible, with the big picture being that the panels are being glued together. and no one will see that part while you are hiking out.

Cut 3/4 inch bottom panel centering strips from pine on the Ryobi table saw. They are sized to fit in the center notch on the keel strip centering jig. The weathered piece above the calipers is the old keel strip, used as a guide to find measurements for the centering strips and new keel strips. The strips are in two pieces, one to fit ahead of the daggerboard and one behind, and that means they can also be cut from an 8 foot piece of lumber. In ohter news Push Stick v1.0 is holding up pretty well.

Attached centering strips temporarily with #10 silicone bronze screws, drilled the pilot hole with a Fuller combination pilot hole and countersink bit. Those bits are tapered and work well for the softer silicone bronze screws, the same ones we'll use to permanently attach the keel strip. Bottom panels will be fit, glued and nailed, then centering strips come out and permanent keel strips wit overlapping edge attached. And the Kobalt drill and impact driver have held up well, we especially like the impact driver to put these screws in. Battery life has been great for our projects.

Attached centering strips temporarily, panels will be fit, glued and nailed, then centering strips come out and permanent keel strips wit overlapping edge attached. Keel strip is on the left, you can barely make out the T shape where the strip will nestle between and overlap the panels.

Log of CHIP.

Alcort Super Sailfish ZSA ZSA 29 Dec 18 Deck Fittings

29 Dec 18:

Trimmed the toe rail a bit to fit for the bow handle. The wooden Alcort bow handles have a tab that wraps the bow, and another strip attaches below and wraps the keel.

Keel strip wraps back about 16 inches.

Attached mast collar with #8 silicone bronze screws, drilled a pilot hole that matched the screw shank diameter and a countersink for the head of the screw. Attached the halyard cleat with the vintage Alcort bronze screws.

Drilled pilot holes and attached eyestraps with vintage Alcort bronze screws.

We like line bridles, the original boat would have had a 2 loop or 3 loop plastic coated wire bridle. 2 loop bridles are the standard today on new boats.

Attached the bow line and splashguard. Splashguard functions more as a handhold or foot rest.

Log of ZSA ZSA.

Alcort Super Sailfish ZSA ZSA 23 Nov 18 Bottom Panels and Hunter Skeg

23 Nov 18:

Attached the final 3 bottom panels to our Super Sailfish. We used TotalBoat THIXO (thickened epoxy) in the seam, ran a bead around the sides and keel, and another bead on the edge of the panel, that should help ensure complete coverage. One bead down one glueing surface is not enough, as the wood soaks in some of the epoxy and might result in a glue starved joint. When the panel goes on we look for a small bit of epoxy to squeeze out, that tells us the joint is full and there is enough pressure on the panel. It took about one tube of THIXO per panel. I like the THIXO because the consistency is perfect for this application, and it is handy to dispense it from the tube in a nice bead, that minimizes epoxy being smeared everywhere and optimizes keeping epoxy in the joint.

Once the panel was positioned we drilled pilot holes and fastened it with 7/8th inch #14 silicone bronze ring shank nails, supplied by Jamestown Distributors.

Keel strip fastened by drilling a pilot hole and counterbore for a 1 1/2 inch #8 silicone bronze wood screw with a Fuller combination bit. These screws use a Forstner bit. Screws and Fuller bit set also supplied by Jamestown Distributors.

Took a break between panels to see if we could trim the bottom panel with a flush blade on a DeWalt oscillating multitool. We could get close if we were careful. Sanded with 60 grit on a random orbital sander.

Back to drilling pilot holes for the nails, the template we made worked out great on the straight sections of the hull.

When we got to the curves at the bow we found it best to offset the template from the nailing line and use it as reference for the holes, otherwise we couldn't follow the curve.

I was told that only the Great Spirit can make something perfect, so goof ups are welcome on our boats. I made sure there were several, as tribute. And it gives the Usual Visitors something to look for.

Spacing for the keel strip screws was 6 inches, shhhh, don't tell anyone that Alcort recommends 7.

There is a 18 inch keel band that attaches at the bow, it is a continuation of a tab on the bow handle. We need to buy some more quarter oval strip to make on for ZSA ZSA, the one shown belongs to CHIP. While we are here, check out the keel strip or skeg. ZSA ZSA had a deep skeg that fit between the bottom panels, the Sunfish CHIP had a short skeg that covered the panel edges. I asked Skipper for guidance on how to make the new skeg, she said keep it tall and add the overlap, and call it the "Hunter Skeg" after her sailing ancestor LT. Ben Hunter. The Sailfish does not have much draft to aid in lateral resistance, the skeg should help with that and aid in tacking.

All 4 panels epoxied and nailed. Hunter Skeg fastened. 2 boards over the scarf joints to hold light pressure while the epoxy cures.

Log of ZSA ZSA.

FMI: Jamestown Distributors for boatbuilding supplies
Great Spirit Boatbuilding Criteria

Alcort Super Sailfish ZSA ZSA 20 Nov 18 Bottom Ply Fitting

20 Nov 18:

Used a cargo strap to pull the panels tight for fitting. Ran a pencil down the side of the keel strip to get a scribe line, pulled the panel off and planed the high spots down with a Stanley #5 Jack plane.

Did both sides, all 4 panels.

Plywood panel edges are hard to plane, with the ply grain running different directions. My plane iron needed sharpening so I finally pulled out the Work Sharp 3000 power sharpener and tried it out. I have never been a pro at hand sharpening, usually end up butchering a blade, the WS3000 worked great and I had a nice sharp blade to do the plywood edge.

It even cleaned up my cheapo demolition chisel!

Log of ZSA ZSA.