1963 Alcort Sunfish CHIP 29 Jan 21 Floorboard

 29 Jan 21:

One of CHIP's floorboards went missing in Hurricane Sally surge, the other floated 300 feet up to the Carriage House, so we cut a new floorboard out of 1/4 inch marine grade plywood.

There is a small wooden cleat on the bottom that helps keep the floorboard from moving around. A note about floorboards, they can float away after a capsize, so dummy cords might be a good addition. 

The cleats are cypress, fastened with #8 x 1 inch silicone bronze Frearson Head screws, piloted and countersunk with combination Fuller bits. Bits and screws available from Jamestown Distributors.

Used Skipper's ratcheting bit brace and auger bits to drill the finger holes, the bit brace was her Grandpa Nelson's.

Both floorboards got a coating of TotalBoat WetEdge BlueGlo White with a Redtree Fooler double bristle Brush (also available from JD). During Sea Trials I found that the coating is slippery, so we will apply a coat to TotalTread once the base coat dries

Log of CHIP.

Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE 09 Jan 18 Floorboards

09 Jan 18:

Step by step how to make floorboards. First step, buy a boat with floorboards...

Here is our 1980 Drascombe Lugger ONKAHYE guarding the cypress boards stored below her, we set those boards aside about 4 years ago for her starboard side floorboard. We bought enough boards to make both sides at once but only made the port side. Surprisingly the lumber is still there.

We made a new port side floorboard for the Drascombe Lugger about 4 years ago after someone whose name rhymes with Scott destroyed an aft plank. Actually Capn Scott was kind enough to point out a weak spot in the slowly rotting pine. The new floor was made from cypress.

We use 1x6 planks, which measure out to 3/4 x 5 1/2 inches. We bought 10 feet long boards with the excess being used to make the half planks and cross cleats. Lay them out UPSIDE DOWN and lay the old floor on top to trace the outside edge. We do it like this because later we have to screw on the cleats. We put a fingertip size gap between the boards to allow for air circulation, we wnat any water to flow easily into the bilge and not get trapped against the boards somewhere. The gap also provides a spot to hold, to ease handling during installation and removal.

If you want to lay the planks in the boat to set your plank spacing, draw some perpendicular lines to help line them back up in the boat. Do this BEFORE you pick the planks up to cut them. The planks are upside down so you can work on them, so they will need to be placed on the opposite side of the bilge. We recommend leaving a finger tip size gap around the outer edge of the floorboard, by the side seats, so that the floorboard and cleats will not interfere with where the fiberglass hull liner is bonded to the hull. With that small gap he boards fit loosely but do not slide around. If you want the boards to fit amazingly tight, then you are on your own :)

We use a DeWALT jigsaw to cut the plank edge.

Hold on to the offcuts to make the half planks and cleats. 3 main planks cut out but we still need to cut the little half planks that go ahead of and behind the centreplate* case. *So British, we call it the centrplate a centerboard her in the U.S. of A.

It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...

Measured the cleats to find width. This 1985ish floorboard was made old school by Capn Jack, he nailed them together. Several nails came in from the top and were clenched (bent over) to hold the shape. Then he flipped the floorboard and put smaller nails in from below, long enough to go through the cleat but not poke through the top of the floorboard, so they probably measured around 1 1/4 inch.

Set to table saw to 1 3/4 inches for the cleats.

Cut the cleats and small center planks from the offcuts. Use the smaller pieces first to optimize wood usage.

Transfer cleat length and angles to new cleat and also make note any bevels on the outer edges. Those are there to help get a snug fit for the floor, but not too tight.

Cut cleat angle ends and note bevels.

All cleats cut. Note the large bevels cut on the lower outer edges of the aft cleats. The hull tucks up and in there so a little extra clearance is needed.

Trace the half planks.

The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case.

The inner edge of the inner planks has a bevel to help clear the centerplate case. Use the half planks to mark where the bevel starts.

Cut the centreplate case clearance bevel with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a DeWALT compact trim router. Only a DeWALT will work...don't try any others...#DeWALT

Centreplate clearance chamfer cut, that helps ease installing and removing the floorboard, no binding.

Ease the edges of the planks with a 1/8th inch roundover bit on a DeWalt compact trim router. Only DeWalt will work...

Coffee time.

We like a finger width gap for air circulation and ease of grabbling the floorboard when taking it in and out.

Drill a pilot hole and countersink with a Fuller combination bit. Attach the cleats with #10 1 1/4 inch silicone bronze screws, Frearson bit.

Here is the screw pattern that we like.

Assembly finito!

Mark finger hole location.

Drill a 1 inch finger hole. Or 1 1//8th inch if you don't have a 1 inch bit. Put a scrap piece of wood underneath to minimize blowout caused by the spade bit.

We sanded with 60 grit so we have a rough surface for traction. We left the sanding dust on there as well for grit. Applied one coat of TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish to act as a sealer against grime. Flip the boards over and varnish the bottom, let dry and go sail/row/motor. For maintenance we may switch to teak oil. #totalboat.

It took 4 1/2 hours to make one side. In the past we have made an entire set in 8 hours, not including the trip to the mill to get the lumber. That time includes the breaks for breakfast, lunch, dinner, goofing off, coffee, more goofing off...

11 Jan 17:

Finito!

Log of ONKAHYE

Dabber and Lugger Floorboards.

1959 Sorg Rough Water Boats 15 Runabout "Willow"

22 Oct 2014: Skipper bought a Race Committee boat, a 1957 15' Sorg Runabout. Her name is Willow, and she will head down from Michigan in a few days on her Tee Nee trailer. Anybody heard of Sorg Boats from Detroit, MI?

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

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24 Oct 2014: Eagerly awaiting a boat and trailer....

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Keith passes the flag on the Sorg to Kent.

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Cool bailer.

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25 Oct 2014: Skipper likes it!

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Willow meets Cyane and St Jacques.

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Tucked in to the shack.

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03 Nov 2014: Hung the Evinrude Lark 35hp. It needs several parts and running condition is unknown. Current plan is to put on a new motor and slowly restore the old one. Check out the post 1958 Evinrude Lark 35hp for progress.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

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11 Nov 2014: TeeNee trailer has some great design features. We will probably add a crossbar at the end for transom rollers, tie downs and a better location for tail lights.

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14 Dec 2014: The bilge in the Sorg has some thin slats, we are not sure if that is supposed to be the floor or not. Also it is hard to get in the boat without stepping on the curve of the hull or catching a foot on the stringer, so we are going to put in a level cockpit sole in the midsection of the boat. That will be our boarding area. Here we are laying out some planks to get a few ideas.

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The rear seat has a folding back, but the middle seat back is missing. Taking some measurements to build another seat out of 3/4 inch marine grade plywood.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

15 Dec 2014: Ripping stringers, slats and battens from cypress for a cockpit sole.

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Marking a notch for slat to fit around the seat support.

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Cut notch for seat support using handsaw.

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Transferred notch markings to opposite end of slats.

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Cut notch for seat support using handsaw.

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Countersunk brass screws through slats into battens.

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Center section finished. It rides on a rail so it can be slid back out of the way once passengers are seated.

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Individually fit slats for the sides.

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22 Dec 2014: Willow is getting a new Suzuki 4 stroke 25 hp installed at Lou's Marine in Gulf Breeze, Florida. Gary is the Owner and has taken this fun challenge on himself, having recently worked on a 1954 Lyman Runabout. Willow will be getting remote steering, remote start, new lights, a bilge pump and external fuel filter. I got to drop in and pick the spots for the steering wheel and throttle.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

Kind of like dropping in during the middle of a surgery.

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23 Dec 2014: Swung by Lou's again to decide on tachometer installation location. Gary was excited for us to get a good look at the boat so he rolled her out to better light at the edge of the shop. She is getting special treatment, spending all day and night inside.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

29 Dec 2014: 1959 Sorg 15 Runabout "Willow" bow light wired.

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Suzuki 4 stroke ATS 25 hp with tilt and trim.

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Suzuki electric start and remote control, remote steering.

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05 Jan 2015: Picked up Willow today, Gary went over the Suzuki checklist and systems with me. Gary is the Owner of Lou's Marine in Gulf Breeze, Florida, worked there with his Dad since the 80s. They are the oldest Suzuki dealer in Florida and 4th oldest in the U.S. He expects a ride when it warms up!

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

Gary's tip for the flush attachment, add a wire to keep the muffs from slipping off the back.

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We found good spots for the battery, bilge pump and external fuel filter. The gas tank will eventually find its best spot, if it were just a bit shorter it would fit i=under te seat nicely.

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Gary did a great job installing the throttle and steering, it took a little whittling on the steering shaft so that the steering wheel trim cap fit. He also installed a fuse box under dash and wired up the bilge pump and lights.

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Stopped at Walmart for fire extinguisher, winch strap, transom tie downs, hitch lock, floaty key ring things, registration letter/number kit, motor flush attachment....entertained several wooden boat enthusiasts in the parking lot....

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'Twas several nights after Christmas, and all through the town, the Skipper was asking, "When are we taking the lights down?"

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Willow back at the Casa.

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06 Jan 2015: Bought a piece of 3/4 inch fir marine plywood at Gatlin Lumber, used the Ford Edge to bring it home. We will use this to cut a new seat back for the middle seat.

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08 Feb 2015: Willow went for sea trials, she ran great. 12 mph at 2700 rpm, 25 mph at 5000 rpm. She had a few small leaks, but they slowed after a few minutes and less than a cup came into the boat. She rides great with her lapstrake construction and carried 3 adults with no problems.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

12 Feb 2015: Visited the old Sorg factory in Detroit at 4301 Grand River Ave. Willow was built here circa 1958-9.

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Also found the house that Harry C. Sorg lived in around 1953.

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15 Feb 2015: Took Willow out for her second cruise, she ran great and carried 4 people. 2 passengers sat in the back seat and we could have a normal conversation even with the motor running at half speed. Anticipated fuel burn is 1 gph.

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04 Mar 2015: Willow after a run into the river inlet. And she got her name on the stern.

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Added bow chocks.

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21 Mar 2015: Started work on making a back for the middle seat, which was missing. It is a little taller and wider than the aft seat back, but I traced the aft seat back to get a starting point.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

The middle seat is a bit taller and wider than the aft seat, so I added an inch all around.

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I cut out a piece of scrap okume plywood to get an idea of the curve and height of the seat.

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Used the okume scrap to trace the ends and the rest was traced with the cardboard. The small folding tables worked great as mobile work tables.

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Cut out the middle seat.

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Test fit of the new middle seat. Look good, but design challenges lurk.

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Oops, I didn't consider the concave curve of the hull, so I'll trim the sides a bit. That explains why the seat back supports on either side of the hull curve out a bit at the top.

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25 Mar 2015: Used the template to see how much of the side needed to be trimmed, then trimmed the seat back.

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Also began work on the stem leak. The bow stem curves down and lays on top of the keel. The leak is coming in around the 3rd to 4th rib up from the end of the stem.

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We think the leak is by that gap on the keel/ bow stem joint by the red paint. Water comes in to the boat at a slow trickle, then we think it drains out once we put it back on the trailer, runs down the keel and pools where that discolored area is. There is also a small rust stain on the trailer there.

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Willow propped up so I can get to the keel.

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The keel comes up and meets the bow stem, and there is a scarf joint there. We suspect that is where the leak is.

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Scraping out the failed sealant between the plank and the keel.

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The old sealant kind of flaked out.

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Used West System to seal the bare plywood.

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Sealed the bare wood with WEST SYSTEM Epoxy.

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26 Mar 2015: Faired the plank with Pettit EZ-Fair then added 3M 5200 Adhesive Sealant to the keel/stem joint. First time using the 5200 and I couldn't get it to smooth out. It will be fun to sand :?

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Old paint needed to be cleaned off the bow eye. We used a razor blade.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

27 Mar 2015: Finishing the 1959 Sorg Runabout 15 with Sikkens Cetol Marine.

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Used Pettit Easypoxy to touch up the stem repair.

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Not a perfect match but the fish won't mind. (05 Apr 2015 Note: Found out the color should be Rustoleum Topside Oyster White)>

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29 Mar 2015: Drilling pilot holes for narrow hinge screws.

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Seat back finished, folds nice and flat. and matches pretty well.

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From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

01 Apr 2015: Willow got measured for a new galvanized trailer at Eddie English Company, Inc. We are going to sell the Tee Nee trailer IOT save it from certain destruction by the local marine elements.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

Click her for the rest of Willow's story.