Showing posts with label small boat restoration. Show all posts
Showing posts with label small boat restoration. Show all posts

Monday, August 28, 2017

AMF Alcort Division Sunfish Viper and Sugar 2

08 Apr 2015:
We rounded up 2 Sunfish built by AMF's Alcort Division. "Viper" is a 1980 boat that had been holding down a piece of plywood at Coastal Marine Works (formerly Breezy Boat City) in Gulf Breeze Florida. A young man needing some cash had brought in the damaged hull to our friend Jan and he helped him out. The hull had most of the parts stripped, a damaged seam and unsightly fiberglass patches, so it took up residence on a piece of plywood behind the office. Jan sold the business to our friend Allen Pinkston aka "Viper" and we discussed the destiny of the hull several times. The good news was that with all of the holes in it, no water had stayed inside and saturated the foam blocks. "Viper" will get a Naval Aviation tribute paint scheme using VF-84's Jolly Rogers colors as inspiration.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -


"Sugar 2" is a 1983 boat that was doing an admirable job of leaning against a wall at ICC Marine in Gulf Shores, Alabama. She had most of her parts stripped as well and has a big hole in the bow. We bought her as part of a 2 1/2 boat deal from Jim and our friend Loxley brought her over when he came to pick up "Boo." The hull is actually in decent shape, just need a bath and small repair....and a lot of parts. "Sugar 2" will get a tribute paint scheme using S-2F Tacker paint as a guide.

From SBR 4: Jun 2014 -

Date Unknown:

Split the seam on Viper so we can access the inside for fiberglass repair. Added an inspection port hole forward of daggerboard trunk.

25 Jul 17:

Restoration resumes on Viper. Lots of old fiberglass patches to remove, used a heat gun to soften the polyester resin and then sanded smooth with 60 grit on a random orbital sander. Removed the cockpit trim by drilling out the rivets with a 1/8 inch bit. Removed old paint from the deck with 60 grit on a random orbital sander.


Viper needs a new backer block for the bow handle...and all of the other deck hardware as well.



The little loop is where the factory hooked up a strap to pull the hull out of the mold.



















26 Jul 17:

Well it took a heat gun running 1150 degrees F AND an oscillating multi tool to burn and chisel off the blob.


Surprise, there was a hole in the boat, with rotting pieces of wood inside...and a small fire, not to worry...


Removed excess two part expanding foam, it had oozed under the storage cubby. It us used to hold the white flotation foam in place, but you only need a little.


You are looking at the bottom side of the storage cubby. At the top of the photo is the white flotation foam that runs along the keel and under the tail end of the cubby, that will stay. The edges of the hull have been faired back in prep for fiberglass repair, all crushed, loose fiberglass has been removed. A backer patch of woven roving and cardboard will be installed inside the hull, then multiple layers of 4 oz cloth will be stacked in the hole, small to large pieces and the last few pieces will overlap the faired area. Fair. Sand. Paint (gel coat if you have the talent).


Waiting for a patch

That's two part expanding foam and the bottom of the storage cubby, some healthy looking woven roving!


28 Aug 17:

Made fiberglass backer patches, formed to the hull shape. Laid down plastic sheet first, then laid out the 4 oz fiberglass cloth and saturated it with thickened TotalBoat epoxy. Covered with another sheet of plastic to let it dry to shape. Once dry the patches will be epoxied inside the hull to form a base for additional layers.





26 Sep 17:

Laid a strip of 4 ox fiberglass cloth to reinforce the hull flange of the deck seam, bedded in TotalBoat THIXO thickened epoxy. Covered the strip with plastic and clamped while it dried.




to be continued...


Learn more about your Sunfish in The Sunfish Owner's Manual.

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

St. Jacques Log 14 Dec 16 Rudder, CB and Paint

14 Dec 16:

Worked on the rudder and centerboard.



Profiled the edge of the centerboard. Still have shaping to do on the rudder but we got the top edge trimmed so that it will swivel in the cheek.


The Penobscot has a reverse transom so the rudder has to swing quite a ways to be level with the keel. We will need to add a retract and extend line so we don't have to dive over the stern to move it up and down.


Where the madness happened for the centerboard.


Right now the plan is to paint the planks, stringers, bulkheads and centerboard case Oyster White. Varnish for the seats, seat supports, centerboard cap, inner transom panel, top stringer, breasthook, knees and rail cap.


The flood coat of paint gets a lot of paint onto the new wood, helps seal the wood, fill the grain and gives us an idea of what hills, valleys and voids we want to sand or fair. Then we apply the show coat and the finish coat. We are going to leave the okume inner panel varnished for now, and see how that looks with the varnished seats and gunwale. If the eye jumps around too much from cypress to okume to Oyster White, then we paint the inner panel as well.


Go to the Log of St. Jacques.

Monday, December 12, 2016

St. Jacques Log 12 Dec 16 Rudder, CB and Mill Trip

12 Dec 16:

Cut out the centerboard, rudder and rudder head today for our Penobscot 14 "St. Jacques." Picked up some more cypress from the mill for the rudder head, seats and centerboard case. Laminated the rudder head okume panels.

Rudder plans, used them to get the radius of the rudder edge and rudder head centerpiece.


Top of the rudder, it is curved so that it can be rotated up in shallow water.


Cut out the rudder with a DEWALT jigsaw.


Our handmade daggerboard volunteered a strip of mahogany to be used along the leading edge of the rudder. I had messed up the edge of the daggerboard when I made it so I am glad we can use it for a few pieces.


The centerboard and rudder will be 3/4 inches thick, similar to our Sunfish rudders and daggerboards. We may copy the edge profiles that the Sunfish blades use, as it works great for them.


Used TotalBoat THIXO from Jamestown Distributors to attach the mahogany rub string to the leading edge of the rudder. Also used silicone bronze screws but those might come back out depending on which profile we put on the leading edge.


Mahogany rub strip for the leading edge of the cypress centerboard, secured with TotalBoat THIXO from Jamestown Distributors.


Skipper supervised transfer of centerboard pattern lines to the cypress board. 74 degrees F here in FLorida today, hope y'all are enjoying the snow up North as well.


Ready to cut the centerboard. Sailfish Winnie is watching.


Cut out the centerboard with a DEWALT jigsaw. This board is an inch thick, left over from the Barbashela rebuild, so we will plane it down to 3/4 inches and then profile the edges.


One of the crew at the sawmill pulling some 12 inch wide S4S 4/4 boards (Surface 4 Sides, 1 inch) for the seats, centerboard case frame and rudder parts.


Made a wood pattern from the paper pattern to trace out the rudder head panels. The top part of the rudder is a sandwich of 2 quarter inch plywood panels, then a 1 inch center board that the rudder nestles against, then 2 more quarter inch panels. I definitely will epoxy the plywood panels together, and might screw them vs epoxy to the center piece so I can pull apart as needed for maintenance. The rudder pivot bolt goes through the bottom part of the plywood panels and top of the rudder blade.


Rudder head panels epoxied together. Rudder blade and rudder head center piece cut out. Centerboard cut out, still needs to be planed to 3/4 inch. Temporary middle seat resting in place.



Click here for the the rest of St. Jacques' story.