Showing posts with label rivet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rivet. Show all posts

Friday, May 12, 2023

Sunfish Deck Edge Trim Rivets

 12 May 23:

We replaced and added a few aluminum rivets on the deck edge trim of Skipper's 1965 Alcort Sunfish sailboat WAVE, using a Marson HP-2 KlikFast rivet gun. The rivets for the trim are aluminum, 1/8th inch diameter. Grip size (depth) can vary from boat to boat, from 1/8th inch to 1/4, today on WAVE 1/8th inch grip worked the best. Fiberglass Sunfish from 1960-1987 have this aluminum trim. The trim covers and protects the deck/hull flange seam, kind of like a rub strip and the trim also gives the boat a finished look. There is not a lot of flange to hold the rivet, so on may boats the rivet can pull out a small bit of the flange and the trim pops loose. The flange can be repaired with fiberglass and resin but there is very little space to add new fiberglass without cutting away a good bit of flange.

Video: https://youtu.be/sSIIJa_-pts


We prefer to drill a new hole through the original flange nearby and install a new aluminum rivet, and put a new aluminum rivet through the original hole. We can see from WAVE's trim that the trim has been reattached several times, this wide beam area on all Sunfish is where we see a lot of detached trim. Thanks for tuning in, drop questions and tips in the comments below, we'll answer. Cheers, Clark and Skipper http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.... PS: Just Say NO to steel rivets. Say it. I can't hear you. Say it louder. NO!! Steel and aluminum together set up a dissimilar metal corrosion war, and aluminum loses. And rusty steel rivets are very hard to drill out, there is a special place in H E Double Hockey Sticks for people who use steel rivets on aluminum trim.



Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Sunfish Coaming Rivets or Rivnuts

Update 28 Jun 17:

The Sunfish coaming or splashguard is held on to earlier models by machine screws and riveted nuts (rivnuts) or by rivets on later models. you can tell by whether there is a slotted screw head or a rivet head. Sometimes coamings come loose, leak, are broken or need to be removed for repair and restoration. Here is a Sunfish damaged by Hurricane Sandy, it has rivets that you can see in the coaming remnants and fractures around the deck holes where the rivets pulled out.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Here is a Sunfish that has clean rivet holes on the deck. The owner is cleaning up old silicone and a makeshift screw and wall anchor repair.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Rivets can be purchased from a Sunfish parts house like Yankee Boating Center and installed with a rivet gun, available from your local hardware store. The demonstration holes in this piece of particle board are 1/4 inch.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

The rivet is inserted into the gun and then the barrel is placed though the coaming into the deck hole.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Squeeze the rivet fun handle, keeping rivet flush against surface. As the rivet shank is pulled the barrel will expand inside the hole. Continue to pull the shank until it snaps under pressure or will pull no further, gently rock rivet gun back and forth to shear top of shank if needed.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

Here is comparison of a pulled rivet on the left vs new rivet. You can see how the barrel is shortened and expanded, filling the hole. It will expand below the deck on a Sunfish and anchor the coaming, the collar of the rivet holds on the top and the expanded barrel holds on the bottom.

From Small Boat Restoration 2013

This is what the rivet looks like on top of the hull and inside the hull.

From SBR 2013

From SBR 2013

1960 to mid 70s boats had closed end rivet nuts (rivnut) and 10-32 x 3/4 inch stainless steel machine screws to attach the coaming. The rivnut had a small bead of sealant that prevented water from leaking inside the hull.

From SBR 2013

Closed end rivnut seen from inside the hull.

From SBR 2013

If the screws are frozen, soak them with penetrating oil for a few days. Give them a few light taps with a screwdriver and hammer. Tighten slightly then back them out.

From SBR 2013



1st Gen splashguard.



2nd Gen coaming aka "The Mustache."