10 Apr 19:
Worked on the bottom panels and keel strip for CHIP. For an 8:1 scarf on 1/4 inch plywood mark a 2 inch scarf line (8 x .25 = 2). The end of the panel is then planed to a slope, with a feather edge on the end up to full thickness at the 2 inch line. And since we want this stern panel scarf to fit underneath the bow panel scarf, we cut the scarf on the top face of the panel as we look at it. For the bow panel, we cut the scarf on the underside face.
120 grit belt on a Black and Decker belt sander a Stanley #5 jack plane to cut the scarfs into the 4 bottom panels. We lined them up on the 2 inch marks and cut the slope, looking for the ply glue lines as we shaved wood away. The goal is to get them as evenly spaced as possible, with the big picture being that the panels are being glued together. and no one will see that part while you are hiking out.
Cut 3/4 inch bottom panel centering strips from pine on the Ryobi table saw. They are sized to fit in the center notch on the keel strip centering jig. The weathered piece above the calipers is the old keel strip, used as a guide to find measurements for the centering strips and new keel strips. The strips are in two pieces, one to fit ahead of the daggerboard and one behind, and that means they can also be cut from an 8 foot piece of lumber. In ohter news Push Stick v1.0 is holding up pretty well.
Attached centering strips temporarily with #10 silicone bronze screws, drilled the pilot hole with a Fuller combination pilot hole and countersink bit. Those bits are tapered and work well for the softer silicone bronze screws, the same ones we'll use to permanently attach the keel strip. Bottom panels will be fit, glued and nailed, then centering strips come out and permanent keel strips wit overlapping edge attached. And the Kobalt drill and impact driver have held up well, we especially like the impact driver to put these screws in. Battery life has been great for our projects.
Attached centering strips temporarily, panels will be fit, glued and nailed, then centering strips come out and permanent keel strips wit overlapping edge attached. Keel strip is on the left, you can barely make out the T shape where the strip will nestle between and overlap the panels.
Log of CHIP.
Showing posts with label scarf. Show all posts
Showing posts with label scarf. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 10, 2019
Sunday, February 4, 2018
1980 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 04 Feb 18 Spar Stain
04 Feb 18:
Sanded the mizzen mast scarf.
Found some cool bronze oar locks on craigslist. The pin is short but they will work for light duty.
Second coat of Minwax Wood Stain Red Chestnut.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Sanded the mizzen mast scarf.
Found some cool bronze oar locks on craigslist. The pin is short but they will work for light duty.
Second coat of Minwax Wood Stain Red Chestnut.
Restoration Log of VICTORY.
Saturday, February 3, 2018
1979 Drascombe Dabber VICTORY 03 Feb 18 Spar Restoration
03 Feb 18:
Sanded the mizzen mast shim and wiped on some teak oil.
Tried an epoxy repair on the tip of the mizzen mast, it was too soft to take a drill. So we cut a scarf piece from Douglas Fir, 12:1 scarf to replace the top 12 inches of the mizzen mast. Fastened the scarf with Pettit Flexpoxy.
Color coded the top of the mast to help me get it lined up correctly when I step it.
Sanded the spars with 120 grit on a random orbital sander. Stained the spars with Minwax Wood Stain Red Chestnut.
Restoration Log of Victory.
Sanded the mizzen mast shim and wiped on some teak oil.
Tried an epoxy repair on the tip of the mizzen mast, it was too soft to take a drill. So we cut a scarf piece from Douglas Fir, 12:1 scarf to replace the top 12 inches of the mizzen mast. Fastened the scarf with Pettit Flexpoxy.
Color coded the top of the mast to help me get it lined up correctly when I step it.
Sanded the spars with 120 grit on a random orbital sander. Stained the spars with Minwax Wood Stain Red Chestnut.
Restoration Log of Victory.
Friday, March 17, 2017
St. Jacques Log 17 Mar 17 Gunwale, Knee and Breasthook
17 Mar 17:
Silicone bronze screws, TotalBoat sealant, Gleam Satin Varnish and varnish kit arrived from Jamestown Distributors. I was able to call them, talk to a knowledgeable person and order over the phone. Free shipping to CONUS because I bought a VIP membership for $59.99 USD, which paid for itself months ago.
Starboard side outer gunwale scarf fastened with Pettit Marine Paint Flexpoxy. Once it dries we might add a silicone bronze screw as well.
Irwin pilot drill and countersink for a #10 Frearson silicone bronze wood screw. I bought the Irwins at Lowes, Jamestown Distributors sells a full set by Fuller as well.
#10 silicone bronze screw for the outer gunwales. Why silicone bronze? Because we want this to be a 100 year boat vs a 7 year boat. "Traditional boatbuilders love these Silicon Bronze wood screws because they have cut threads and the full-bodied diameter shank. Unlike rolled thread screws with their reduced shank--these screws have a shank diameter that is the same size as the outside of the threads. This completely fills the clearance hole normally drilled for the shank thus creating a waterproof seal" (JD, 2017). Silicone bronze is also one of the most durable materials to use in the marine environment, especially below waterlines. Had I known earlier I would have considered them vs the 316 stainless.
Pulled the angle with a bevel for the thwart knee. Trimmed to fit around risers and duplicated for the other 3 seat knees.
Breasthook blank (triangular bow section). 6/4 S4S or 1 1/2 inch thick cypress, will be shaped down to 1 1/4 inch along the gunwales.
Cut bevel on forward edge of breasthook blank.
Found angle for sides of breasthook. It has to fit down and in, so that angle needs to be moved over. Arch describes how to do it in his book, my method is a little different so use at your own peril. (Edit: My method was wrong! I brought the top lines in instead of taking them out further to match the bevel. Ooops).
Found vertical to move breasthook bevel over, it will sit inside the gunwale. (Edit: Turns out this spacing was moved the wrong direction, I should have moved it outward vs inward. We want the top 1/4 inch of the breasthook to sit above the gunwale, so it can be shaped with a slight crown.)
Moved over breasthook bevel. (Edit: The wrong way...)
Marked forward edge of breasthook side profile.
Marked underside of breasthook side profile.
Drew cut lines for breasthook. I suppose you could cut from the top or bottom, depending on your saw. My intent was to cut it a bit wide and finish it to fit with a rasp and plane....stay tuned for breaking news.
I cut the port side line and the fit looked good. I wanted to cut outside the starboard side line to leave it a little proud for fitting the breasthook....well I moved the spacing the wrong way and I cut on the wrong side of the line! Moaning chair time. Looks like I need to adjust for the sweep a little as well.
5 minute epoxy in our future?
St. Jacques Log
Silicone bronze screws, TotalBoat sealant, Gleam Satin Varnish and varnish kit arrived from Jamestown Distributors. I was able to call them, talk to a knowledgeable person and order over the phone. Free shipping to CONUS because I bought a VIP membership for $59.99 USD, which paid for itself months ago.
Starboard side outer gunwale scarf fastened with Pettit Marine Paint Flexpoxy. Once it dries we might add a silicone bronze screw as well.
Irwin pilot drill and countersink for a #10 Frearson silicone bronze wood screw. I bought the Irwins at Lowes, Jamestown Distributors sells a full set by Fuller as well.
#10 silicone bronze screw for the outer gunwales. Why silicone bronze? Because we want this to be a 100 year boat vs a 7 year boat. "Traditional boatbuilders love these Silicon Bronze wood screws because they have cut threads and the full-bodied diameter shank. Unlike rolled thread screws with their reduced shank--these screws have a shank diameter that is the same size as the outside of the threads. This completely fills the clearance hole normally drilled for the shank thus creating a waterproof seal" (JD, 2017). Silicone bronze is also one of the most durable materials to use in the marine environment, especially below waterlines. Had I known earlier I would have considered them vs the 316 stainless.
Pulled the angle with a bevel for the thwart knee. Trimmed to fit around risers and duplicated for the other 3 seat knees.
Breasthook blank (triangular bow section). 6/4 S4S or 1 1/2 inch thick cypress, will be shaped down to 1 1/4 inch along the gunwales.
Cut bevel on forward edge of breasthook blank.
Found angle for sides of breasthook. It has to fit down and in, so that angle needs to be moved over. Arch describes how to do it in his book, my method is a little different so use at your own peril. (Edit: My method was wrong! I brought the top lines in instead of taking them out further to match the bevel. Ooops).
Found vertical to move breasthook bevel over, it will sit inside the gunwale. (Edit: Turns out this spacing was moved the wrong direction, I should have moved it outward vs inward. We want the top 1/4 inch of the breasthook to sit above the gunwale, so it can be shaped with a slight crown.)
Moved over breasthook bevel. (Edit: The wrong way...)
Marked forward edge of breasthook side profile.
Marked underside of breasthook side profile.
Drew cut lines for breasthook. I suppose you could cut from the top or bottom, depending on your saw. My intent was to cut it a bit wide and finish it to fit with a rasp and plane....stay tuned for breaking news.
I cut the port side line and the fit looked good. I wanted to cut outside the starboard side line to leave it a little proud for fitting the breasthook....well I moved the spacing the wrong way and I cut on the wrong side of the line! Moaning chair time. Looks like I need to adjust for the sweep a little as well.
5 minute epoxy in our future?
St. Jacques Log
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