Friday, July 26, 2024

1981 AMF Sunfish MADISON on the James River

 26 Jul 24:

Nice weather for a sail and a photo shoot, we took our 1981 AMF Sunfish named MADISON out for the first time on the James River. As mentioned in an earlier post, we had the boom set too low for our liking, so the first few photos are of Skipper going out and returning immediately so we could adjust the gooseneck.


Even sitting in the cockpit and ducking, the boom is still too low for a recreational sail. But we have nice wind and a few small waves. Winds were around 6-8 knots with a few puffs coming off of a rain shower about 15 miles distant. Mostly cloudy skies added to the pleasantness with the water temp at 82F and air temp at 75F, dewpoint 74F.


MADISON has been in the family since the late 1990s, she spent a bit of time teaching new sailors at Corpus Christi State University, and after being sold as surplus she found her way to Skipper's parents. We can't remember how and when, but she worked her way from the Texas Gulf Coast over to the Florida Gulf Coast, spending some time on Escambia Bay and then East Bay. Now here she is in the Mid-Atlantic region. Is she trying to get back to Waterbury, CT?


We slide the gooseneck well forward, maybe 16-18 inches from the forward end of the lower boom, which is a little further forward than our normal 19-21 inch setting. We could also tie the halyard 6-12 inches lower on the upper boom. But this setup got us sailing today, with decent lower boom clearance above the deck and the aft end of the lower boom angled up a bit. We like the lower boom set high, the way ALCORT shows in all of their advertising photos, but you may notice in other photos that modern day racers set the sail rig very low.

Image Credit: Ginnie Gilson
Spofford Lake Sunfish Regatta July 13th, 2024

Anyway, we like what we call "The Geezer Rig." And check out our beautiful custom sail, made by Hunter and his crew at Schurr Sailing Pensacola. 






Back to the beach. Low tide by the way, we used the dolly to roll the boat about 50 feet out before there was enough water to launch, even then we didn't have full clearance for the daggerboard. We like how the nose wheel rolled, so we didn't have to hold the bow the entire time. The dolly rolled so well that we had to turn it sideways to keep the dolly and boat from rolling back into the bay.


A few photos follow of a recreational rigged boat. At the top of the upper boom here, the tack of the sail, take notice of the outhaul line and that there is a sail ring on the last grommet, some folks forget to add that ring. The outhaul can be adjusted as desired, tight for high winds to depower the sail a bit, and loose for "loose" winds to add more cup or draft back to the sail. 


On MADISON we have a long bungee run from the bow handle back to the daggerboard, the bungee's is to be a retaining line to keep the daggerboard from floating away after a capsize. The ideal length is to have just enough tension on the bungee so that the top of the daggerboard is pulled forward enough to keep it from sliding down into the trunk....for some folks...that is where I like it. The Skipper likes to have a loose retaining line, so she clips the bungee around the mast when she goes out.


We use a Sunfish snap shackle on one end of the bungee, so that we can easily unsnap to move or remove the line.


Skipper got becalmed last time she was out, for at least two minutes and twelve seconds, so she is going to start taking a paddle with her as entertainment. Here's one spot to stow it, another way is to slide the handle under the halyard. And many Sunfishers keep a shorter telescoping paddle in the cockpit. Also shown in this photo is how we like to stow the excess halyard. One last note about the sail and booms, it is easiest to put the sail, lower boom and upper boom on the port side of the mast so that the halyard can run free from the top of the mast down to the deck fairlead/bullseye. If the sail is on the starboard side, then there is a big mess of sail and booms to try and work around when raising or lowering the sail, and either you are reaching behind the sail to get to the halyard or if the halyrd runs outside of the booms, then it fouls the sail when the rig is raised. How to remember which side the sail and booms go to? One way is to remember is the "Right is Wrong" meaning sail on the right side is wrong :) 


The daggerboard retaining line is attached to a daggerboard handle through a 1/4 inch hole that was drilled into the handle at the factory. The earliest daggerboards do not have this hole, because it took a while for folks to realize that it would be a good idea to keep the daggerboard from floating way, as it is needed to right the boat after a capsize. To right the boat, insert the daggerboard fully, swim around to the bottom side, push down on the end of the daggerboard to use it as a lever to get the boat rolling upright. Then grab the deck edge and haul yourself back aboard over the side, or over the stern.


Capn Jack always liked using a line bridle over the factory wire bridle, and he added a little block to clip a snap shackle to for the sheet. He liked the sound of the block going back and forth and the ease of the snap shackle over tying a bowline knot. There are many variation on this theme, one of which is using a bridle block to create a 2:1 purchase by starting the sheet on the lower boom, running the sheet down to a single bridle block, back up to the aft boom block, forward to the forward boom block and down to the cockpit, where another slew of variations happens with open fairleads or swivel cam cleats or stand up ratchet blocks or...FWIW MADSION has a swivel cam cleat (factory) which I use, but Skipper likes the sheet coming right off of the boom straight to her hands, she don't need no stinkin fairleads and will be the first to tell us to never cleat a dinghy sheet.


AMF Alcort Division. The 1/8 inch hole above the cockpit bulkhead sticker is a hull vent, do not plug it. Without the vent, air inside the hull will heat up, expand and create enough volume to pop a deck/hull seam or pull internal  foam blocks loose.


The original Cool Cat AMF cubby cooler...



Did we mention how much we like the nosewheel? 


MADISON in the foreground and our photship CLARK lounging on the beach.



Field Trials with the trailer winch were a success, operated by the Trailer Wench aka Skipper aka Dock Line Wench and Galley Wench.  


We are also very happy with the Railblaza C-Tug kayak cart.



Video: C-Tug





650 Cold Cranking Amps for the winch is plenty, as is 100 minute reserve. The winch motor has to be cooled 14 minutes for every 45 seconds of cranking, we assume this means when pulling a full 2000 pound load.



Updated the Marine Traffic Control Board.


Log of MADISON

Sunday, July 21, 2024

How to replace a Sunfish Bow Handle

21 Jul 24: 

To replace a bow handle on older Sunfish (1960-1988 mostly) there is a trick. The screws go into a wooden backer block beneath the deck, that is held in place by adhesive and a strip of fiberglass. If the wood block adhesive or the fiberglass strip have come loose, then the block may fall down IF ALL OF THE SCREWS ARE REMOVED AT THE SAME TIME. So the trick is to leave one screw on the old handle snug, swivel the old handle to the side, and then get one screw started in the new handle. Once the new handle's screw is into the wooden block, take the old handle's screw out and finish attaching the new handle. 






What about the 1988 and newer Sunfish? Those boats have aluminum plates which tend to stay in place better. 

Fair Winds,
Clark and Skipper

Saturday, July 20, 2024

Skipper's "Pirating About" Chandlery Open for Barter and Trade

21 Feb 24:

Skipper is offering barter and trade items through her chandlery named Pirating About.

The first items in stock are vintage bronze knees and oarlock sockets and a random bracket.



1/2 inch diameter oarlock (rollock) sockets.




$50 USD takes it all
Shipping included in CONUS.
Paypal, money order, check or cash
We'll also barter for Sunfish
FMI: email lewis dot kent at gmail 

Cheers,
Clark and Skipper

Friday, July 19, 2024

Tilley LTM6 Ariflo Sun Hat

19 Jul 24:

Skipper has a new Tilley LTM6 Airflo Sun Hat. She likes it a lot, so we did a review for Small Boats Nation, the article should publish August 1st of this year. The Tilley is the mauve colored hat on Skipper's hat deck.

Thursday, July 18, 2024

Toy Hauler Utility Trailer Winch and Dynamic Dolly Nose Wheel

18 Jul 24: 

We like our utility trailer for use as a toy hauler, but found that the ramp can be a little slippery and awkward when pulling a dolly up the ramp. Skipper decreed that we figure out a way where she can load the dolly and boat by herself if she wants, so we added a battery powered winch from Harbor Freight.


The boat and dolly weigh under 200 pounds, so this ought to do. We picked this winch for price, and SPOILER ALERT, while it works, it is noisy and it will tangle the cable if there is not tension on the cable at all times. Even then, we periodically had to guide the cable back or forth when it started to stack up at either end of the spool. Does it work? Yes. Did we have a proper size fiarlead? Yes. Might there be another better designed winch out there? Yes. In the meantime, $69 USD will get you winching.




The tongue box aluminum is functional, light but thin for use as a winch base. So we added a 3/4 inch thick base plate of marine grade plywood and  tied it into the trailer frame with trailer axle U bolts.


Here are the specs on the AGM battery we chose.


We considered adding a solar panel to trickle charge, but it was easier/cheaper for now to just use our 155vac battery charger. We'll have to remove the battery to get it to the charger, no problem, and it will also be more secure inside.


Next we turned our attention to the Dynamic Dolly, we wanted it to have a nose wheel so it didn't scrape up the grated metal ramp. I bought a set of Railblaza Dinghy Wheels and made a wooden bracket to adapt a wheel to the tongue of the Dynamic Dolly.




One side has a latch where you can remove the fork and wheel if desired...


...and the other side has the locking lever that locks the fork into the selected position or allow the fork to be repositioned. Turns out this is very useful.


2 wheels = 2 dollies upgraded.





Rigging Check...SPOILER ALERT...the boom is too low and I will catch hell for that when Skipper takes MADISON out :) 


1981 AMF Sunfish MADISON and 2013 Pelican Icon 10 kayak CLARK ready to roll on HUEY II, towed by SUPER SANDY.



It's almost like we planned this, but we didn't. The fork will swivel forward to clear the tongue box, and the wheel helps keep the dolly snug.


Some folks might be eyeballing the Dynamic Dolly for their Sunfish. It is a fantastic piece of gear, we highly recommend it, so much so that we own seven for the Armada and we are Dealers. 

If you are interested in buying one, we can get it to you with free shippin in CONUS. See link below or send us a gmail to lewis dot kent.





Virginia waters, here we come!

Small Boat Dolly

-Sunfish Dolly by Dynamic Dollies and Racks $575 Free Shipping to Lower 48 States






•Dolly style allows bow of boats with a curled gunwale to hang from a specifically shaped handle fitting. Snug-fitting edge trim atop the handle fitting protects the gunwale gelcoat. Type is suitable for Sunfish, Laser 2, JY 15, and more.

• Boat-specific tube and sling lengths provide a custom fit for each boat, enabling a balanced handle load and easy maneuvering.

• All joint fittings are through-bolted and designed for increased torque stability.

• Strong, 3” non-stretch, polyester sling provides wrap-around boat support.

• Adjustable, flexible V-fitting on tongue tube provides boat support forward of the sling and prevents boat and aluminum contact.

• Eyelets on sling and handle fittings facilitate securing boat to dolly in storage, on trailers or in racks. Tie-down with the handle fitting eyelet helps prevent slippage on steep ramps.

• Easy dolly breakdown using the snap buttons on wheel shaft and tongue tube, as well as wing nuts on axle tube cross fitting.

• Pneumatic, non-corrosive, 16” x 4” wheels can be secured on wheel shaft with provided screws for added security. For soft sand conditions, tire pressure can be reduced to increase tire footprint.

• Proudly made in the USA.