This halyard cleat has a screw sheared off in the wooden backer block. I picked a drill bit that fit inside the halyard cleat screw hole, in this case it was a 5/32 inch bit, and then drilled into the deck where the old screw was stuck. These are the tools used to drill out the old screw, and you can also see the progress of the deck repair. (Edit Tip) When working over internal wooden backer blocks, leave one screw in at all times to prevent the block from falling into the hull. Do one screw hole, reposition hardware over repaired hole, put in screw loosely into new hole, then swivel hardware aside to work on second hole.)
As I drilled I saw wood shavings coming out, a good sign that the backer block is still there. There were more shavings than what are shown, but it was windy today :)
Next I'll force some Marine Tex epoxy putty into the drilled out screw hole. Once it is dry, I'll drill a small pilot hole and install a new halyard cleat screw, either an original bronze or newer stainless screw. The deck repair will get another layer of Marine Tex, then sanded and painted.
what if the block drops when you are drilling out the old screw bit? How do you access underneath
ReplyDeleteLeave one screw in at a time when working with backer blocks. But if the backer block has dropped off for the halyard block or halyard cleat, we prefer to cut a hole for a deck plate between the coaming and daggerboard trunk and work through that hole to replace missing/rotten backer blocks. That deck plate gives access to other common problem areas and is a good spot to sponge out any water inside the hull after a sail.
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