Our friend Steve tutored us through the maintenance on our Suzuki DF6, a 4 stroke outboard motor. Here are some random photos of the evolution and special tools that can come in handy, plus some tools and equipment we'll need to add to the kit for future maintenance. Preventative maintenance should be done at intervals per the Service Manual.
First a note about Steve, Retired Coast Guard, he has been repairing and rebuilding outboards for decades. He is also an avid small boater, so he depends on his motor to start every time.
A tachometer comes in handy to set idle rpm for the motor.
Feeler gauges, both mm and inches, to set spark plug gaps.
This is the tiny spring that for the float bowl. It has to come off at times. Steve recommends taking photos of items like this so when it comes time to reinstall, there is a reference.
A small file set come in handy for lots of jobs.
Here is the DF6 carburetor. My understanding is that the 4hp Suzuki engine is the same size engine with a smaller carb. One other difference between the 4 and the 6 is that the 6hp motor has a hose fitting for an external fuel tank. The 4hp is plenty of thrust for the 800 pound displacement hull of Skipper's Drascombe Lugger, but we bought the 6hp thinking that we might do extended range cruising in creeks where wind would be "wonky." And when we were in Florida coastal Gulf waters, when the wind died it would rapidly get dangerously hot, and we wanted auxiliary propulsion to rescue ourselves.
A vacuum gauge if compression/vacuum needs to be tested.
Here are the plugs for the lower unit oil service holes. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have a spare in case one gets lost or worn. Steve likes to use an impact driver to get screw loos or for the final tightening, plus TefGel on the threads to prevent corrosion, that makes the next servicing go easier.
While one tool kit would have most of the tools, we plan to build up an outboard motor set of tools to keep with the lube, oils and spare parts that we use. With a travel tool kit we can go to the motor, vs having to take the 60 pound motor off of the boat each time to go to the workshop (funshop).
The locking forceps are useful as a third hand.
Steve does not favor any specific brand, gearcase lube is gearcase lube. The same with engine oil. Ang get a tube of Green Grease, it is a true waterproof grease, which is useful just about everywhere, especially on internal components like shift linkages and driveshaft that are exsposed to waters.
Here is one of Steve's "special tools" that he uses to drain engine oil. It is indeed calibrated to hold the quantity of engine oil that is in the block.
Super Lube also is great to put on electrical connections like trailer wiring plugs, to limit corrosion and keep water out.
Lanocote prevents rust, corrosion and electrolysis. And as you can see by the container, a little goes a long way.
Many thanks to Steve for the tutoring, and the time
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