06 Feb 22:
Today we cut the ladder frame sides to length and screwed in the cross supports.
Used the 3 inch bevel from the WoodenBoat store to find the stern transom angle...
...and transferred the angle over to the ladder frame stern transom support. You may choose to level the ladder frame fore/aft and side to side at this point, but we are going to level right before we install support legs to the molds and frames, then check level again.
Attached the temporary wooden cleat to the inner transom face. You may want to bevel the transoms before they are installed, we are going to do it after they are attached to the ladder frame. We also cut the cross pieces, measured where they are located on the frame per plans and screwed them into place. Also attached a temporary spall to the miships frame.
Installed the bow transom and planed the first two plank bevels per the pattern lines.
Laid out the centerline between the two transoms and marked the centerline with sharp pencil at each point vs Sharpie. Using a sharp pencil is a trick that Louis Sauzedde taught us, more accurate than snapping a chalk line. FMI: Tips From a Shipwright)
Screwed the forward and aft mold and midhaps frame to the ladder frame cross pieces.
The wooden cleats that we attached to the transoms earlier are used to help align the transoms to the ladder frame crass pieces.
Aft mold attached to the front face of ladder frame cross piece.
Midships frame spall attached to aft side of ladder frame cross piece.
Forward mold, aka Mold #1, attached to aft side of ladder frame cross piece.
Bow transom.
The bow transom has a wooden positioning cleat as well, and angled ladder frame cross piece. Bow transom angle taken from the patterns and plans.
Next we'll level the ladder frame and add braces to the molds and frame per the plans. Then check level again before the bottom plank is installed.
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