Worked on ZSA ZSA's deck, but first a PSA. Here is the remnant of a keeper chain for the $50 horizontal hinge pin of the rudder assembly. They don't keep very well, we suggest attaching the keeper to the rudder vs the deck.
We dredged out the seam a bit with a half moon blade on a DeWALT multi oscillating tool.
There MIGHT have been a leak here, the deck panel was popped loose at the bow. We used our saw to clean out some old adhesive.
New shop stool CARMEN put to work with WALDO.
Busted the mast step loose, someone had attached it with two lag bolts, normally takes 4 #12 bronze screws. It's off now, and we can see that the deck was replaced at one point, probably how the foam blocks got inside back when.
Removed the corroded coaming fasteners.
Used a syringe to inject TotalBoat THIXO thickened epoxy into the deckedge seam. It was easier on my hand to dispense the THIXO and mix it by hand vs using the mixing tip, then trowel it into the syringe. We also filled old fastener holes.
Put a sealer coat of TotalBoat Halcyon Amber Varnish on the mast step.
Made a pattern of the plank with parchment paper.
Sanded and sanded and sanded. 40 grit on the DeWALT random orbit sander and Black and Decker belt sander, lots of old paint to get gone. Smoothed the scarf.
Primary goal was to get the surface smooth and put some tooth on the old paint so it will hold primer.
Started putting some bend in the toe rail. Spoiler Alert! It didn't work.
We interrupt our regularly scheduled program for Trailer Tetris. CYANE's trailer back to the trailer park, SMEDLEY to the driveway.
13 Dec 18:
Dry fit the rub rail, trimmed the lower edge up a bit per Culler style. The toe rail will be trimmed at the bow to make room for the bow handle.
Cut the toe rail down to 3/4 inches wide so it would take a bend. It will cover the top of the rub rail and overlap the deck. Both the rub rail and toe rail be permanently fastened with THIXO and will protect the deck seam. Drilled countersink and pilot hole with combination Fuller bit, dry fit with #6 silicone bronze wood screws. To make the toe rail curve we placed screws every 3 inches, otherwise a screw was used every 12 inches to hold the trim in position. We could have used deck screws for this, we recommend using a screw with a star drive or square drive and to always drill pilot holes, otherwise the narrow trim will split.
The current plan is to remove the screws after the THIXO cures, fill the screw holes with epoxy based TotalFair. Once the trim is on we will slightly round the cut edge so it is not sharp, if we remember we will put it on the outside edge or work it over before it is installed with a thumb plane.
Log of ZSA ZSA.
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